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okayput spacers at the back to help hold the roofmake it only as big as needed- you can stack circut boards and batterys ontop of each other to save space. this helps with weight. make it more arodinamik.get some high friction aircraft tiresfor HDPE you can use cutting boardsfor connecting HDPE you can use screwsmake it look cool!
you can see I really wanted to make this as simple as possible, and build it without a microcontroller, is there any essential task that this will provide that my remote-control robot will need, or can I do without one, if I get a speed controller?
the guy said that adhesives don't really work that well too, so what is the way to go here?
As with choosing the motors, if you use the calculator to determine how much force you need to move your robot, this will be sufficient but unfortunately it wont take into account the fact that you would need to push another robot out of the way, you would want resulting torque to be at least 250% of the value that you get in order to counteract the forces produced by puching the other robot/ car out of the way. When it comes to speed, this can be achieved using effective gearing which is where you really need to look for your speed/ torque requirements.
Have you considered doing 4 wheel drive (four motors)?What RMF do you desire?
So I don't know whether I should be consulting the RMF Calculator like its some all-powerful motor deity , or go with my gut, and just buy some motors that are close to my RMF, and look "powerful" in comparison to others.
I will need 2 speed controllers, correct? Because I was looking at the wiring, and I think you need one for each motor. Not 100% sure though.
I found this beast, that gives me an RMF of 4.43 = wayyy more than I need. But is this overkill?
I'll add this to my growing list of part websites.
Also I was wondering what is up with this transmitter: http://www.servocity.com/html/ranger_2n.html It's cheap, but it looks like the control stick on the right side only goes left and right...not up or down, not exactly easy to use for a differential drive bot...
One more thing: http://www.robotshop.ca/home/products/robot-parts/motor-controllers/brushed-motor-controllers/all-brushed-motor-controllers/index.html I'm a little intimidated by things that look like circuit boards because I automatically assume complicated things are associated with them, but do these motor controllers standalone or do they hook up with a microcontroller?
Because I'm looking at this one: http://www.robotshop.ca/home/products/robot-parts/motor-controllers/brushed-motor-controllers/all-brushed-motor-controllers/solutions-cubed-motor-mind-c.htmlAnd it looks pretty good, I don't mind soldering either.
QuoteBecause I'm looking at this one: http://www.robotshop.ca/home/products/robot-parts/motor-controllers/brushed-motor-controllers/all-brushed-motor-controllers/solutions-cubed-motor-mind-c.htmlAnd it looks pretty good, I don't mind soldering either. It can do RC, but you will need one for each motor. Also, are you sure 2.25A is enough for your motors?
Actually, while I was going to go and order batteries from http://www.all-battery.com/ if anyone can recommend a better place to buy, it would be appreciated, I was going to just purchase a single 12V battery pack to simplify things, but I'm not averse to putting a couple 6V packs in series, etc.
Quote from: jman571 on March 26, 2008, 07:58:53 AMActually, while I was going to go and order batteries from http://www.all-battery.com/ if anyone can recommend a better place to buy, it would be appreciated, I was going to just purchase a single 12V battery pack to simplify things, but I'm not averse to putting a couple 6V packs in series, etc.try www.onlybatterypack.com
for wheels would go with the sumo tires they have great tractionalso the BEC connector is a god niversal connector
But it seems mounting hubs are also required, meaning they'll cost me almost $40 in total.
Keep in mind the surface of the race track is sheet aluminum, and the robot must make it up a 10oincline. I was considering going with foam wheels, they seem to be the cheapest, but I have qualms about their ability to grip the track and provide enough traction. As well, the motor shaft diameter is 6mm, so the wheel/hub would have to be that size or smaller (I could always drill a larger hole). Any decent wheel recommendations?, I am looking for something in the 3-5" diameter range.
QuoteBut it seems mounting hubs are also required, meaning they'll cost me almost $40 in total.Pretty easy/cheap to just make your own.QuoteKeep in mind the surface of the race track is sheet aluminum, and the robot must make it up a 10oincline. I was considering going with foam wheels, they seem to be the cheapest, but I have qualms about their ability to grip the track and provide enough traction. As well, the motor shaft diameter is 6mm, so the wheel/hub would have to be that size or smaller (I could always drill a larger hole). Any decent wheel recommendations?, I am looking for something in the 3-5" diameter range.Foam wheels can grip a 10 deg surface no problem. If you are really worried about traction, you can add rubber to your wheels:http://www.societyofrobots.com/robot_ERP.shtml#changes
I'm sure Admin will know what it is...he got the exact same charger as me
QuoteI'm sure Admin will know what it is...he got the exact same charger as meactually, I dont - they look similar though . . .as for that thingy . . . hmmmm its not in the instructions that came with the charger?what happens if you plug it in and turn it on? it looks like an LED of some sort . . .my guess is maybe its for discharging a battery - plug it in to a battery, and it slowly drains it . . . but really I don't know . . .
heyi have that charger , the Tenergy oneI have both the 4.8V to 7.2V version and the 7.2V to 12V version. I am satisfied with both they both work fineWhen the LED is red its charging when its green its done charging
which wierd piecethe fuse?but yea blinking red is problemo