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If you really need 30A and really want to use an LM317 look at the application info on the data sheet for using a pass transistor (or 2 or . Just don't forget the Heatsinks.
How would I do this? do you have any examples drawings ? what's a "pass transistor" ? I look at the data sheet and can't find this.Quote from: waltr on January 08, 2011, 10:04:06 AMIf you really need 30A and really want to use an LM317 look at the application info on the data sheet for using a pass transistor (or 2 or . Just don't forget the Heatsinks.
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Hi,Quote from: offencerobotics on January 08, 2011, 05:37:46 PMHow would I do this? do you have any examples drawings ? what's a "pass transistor" ? I look at the data sheet and can't find this.Quote from: waltr on January 08, 2011, 10:04:06 AMIf you really need 30A and really want to use an LM317 look at the application info on the data sheet for using a pass transistor (or 2 or . Just don't forget the Heatsinks.First of all. The fact that your supply is able to put out 30A doesn't necessarily mean that your PC will need that much, especially if it's only lightly loaded.Second: You don't wanna make this as a linear supply. Dropping 19V at 30A is 570W lost as heat to get 150W of usable power (Total drain from your 24V battery would be 720W!).A switcher is the only sensible way.If you get a motherboard made especially for battery supply, power demands are much lower.
But I really want to understand how to make a "Switcher voltage regulated power" does anyone have a simple schematic that I can try out on my solderless breadboard?
well it to run my desktop computer that in side my robot off the 24 volt battery the power supply that came with the desktop put out 5v 30 amp 12v 12 amp and 3.3 volt 14 amp.
Hi,Quote from: offencerobotics on January 09, 2011, 12:50:45 PMBut I really want to understand how to make a "Switcher voltage regulated power" does anyone have a simple schematic that I can try out on my solderless breadboard? A 250W switcher (SMPSU, Switch Mode Power Supply Unit) is not for the uninitiated and certainly not something you build on a solderless board.
Quote from: offencerobotics on January 08, 2011, 11:56:45 AMwell it to run my desktop computer that in side my robot off the 24 volt battery the power supply that came with the desktop put out 5v 30 amp 12v 12 amp and 3.3 volt 14 amp. backing up here for a bit . . .You want to put your PC inside a robot? Keep in mind that the hard drive might get damaged if your bot crashes into walls . . . not to mention all the added weight! And then you got that big heavy 24V lead acid battery. More weight means bigger and more expensive motors.Why not get a cheap laptop (craptop) off of ebay? It'll probably cost you the same as everything you need to support a PC on your bot.
No I'm going to buying a 250W switcher (SMPSU, Switch Mode Power Supply Unit) on ebay , but I want to build a simple one on my solderless board just to understand it a for fun.Quote from: Soeren on January 10, 2011, 12:04:50 PMHi,Quote from: offencerobotics on January 09, 2011, 12:50:45 PMBut I really want to understand how to make a "Switcher voltage regulated power" does anyone have a simple schematic that I can try out on my solderless breadboard? A 250W switcher (SMPSU, Switch Mode Power Supply Unit) is not for the uninitiated and certainly not something you build on a solderless board.
Quote from: offencerobotics on January 11, 2011, 07:59:38 PMNo I'm going to buying a 250W switcher (SMPSU, Switch Mode Power Supply Unit) on ebay , but I want to build a simple one on my solderless board just to understand it a for fun.Quote from: Soeren on January 10, 2011, 12:04:50 PMHi,Quote from: offencerobotics on January 09, 2011, 12:50:45 PMBut I really want to understand how to make a "Switcher voltage regulated power" does anyone have a simple schematic that I can try out on my solderless breadboard? A 250W switcher (SMPSU, Switch Mode Power Supply Unit) is not for the uninitiated and certainly not something you build on a solderless board.You can make a low frequency, low current DC-DC switcher on a solderless board to learn about the basics. A perf-board would be a bit better if you want to try higher currents but just don't expect too much.Google and read:dc-dc converterBoost converterBuck converter555 dc-dc converter7660 charge pump voltage converterThen look at data sheets and app notes from:Linear TechNational SemiconductorMaxim- http://www.maxim-ic.com/Analog DevicesThat should keep you busy.
Quote from: Admin on January 11, 2011, 02:19:47 PMQuote from: offencerobotics on January 08, 2011, 11:56:45 AMwell it to run my desktop computer that in side my robot off the 24 volt battery the power supply that came with the desktop put out 5v 30 amp 12v 12 amp and 3.3 volt 14 amp. backing up here for a bit . . .You want to put your PC inside a robot? Keep in mind that the hard drive might get damaged if your bot crashes into walls . . . not to mention all the added weight! And then you got that big heavy 24V lead acid battery. More weight means bigger and more expensive motors.Why not get a cheap laptop (craptop) off of ebay? It'll probably cost you the same as everything you need to support a PC on your bot.for the hard drive thing you can go with an 8gb ssd which i've seen for $40. i like the idea of using an old desktop computer because you can add pci cards that can actually make it fairly useful. also laptops are not THAT cheephttp://cgi.ebay.com/Kingspec-1-8-Inch-8GB-SATA-II-MLC-SSD-Solid-State-Drive-/120667136468?pt=AU_Laptop_Accessories&hash=item1c185261d4
for the hard drive thing you can go with an 8gb ssd which i've seen for $40. i like the idea of using an old desktop computer because you can add pci cards that can actually make it fairly useful. also laptops are not THAT cheephttp://cgi.ebay.com/Kingspec-1-8-Inch-8GB-SATA-II-MLC-SSD-Solid-State-Drive-/120667136468?pt=AU_Laptop_Accessories&hash=item1c185261d4
Hi,Quote from: blackbeard on January 11, 2011, 09:42:14 PMfor the hard drive thing you can go with an 8gb ssd which i've seen for $40. i like the idea of using an old desktop computer because you can add pci cards that can actually make it fairly useful. also laptops are not THAT cheephttp://cgi.ebay.com/Kingspec-1-8-Inch-8GB-SATA-II-MLC-SSD-Solid-State-Drive-/120667136468?pt=AU_Laptop_Accessories&hash=item1c185261d48GB SSD for AU$31.59?Sounds way too cheap!Even though the seller seems like a commercial seller, he's got only 10 sales (as of writing), sort of like the one my GF bought a wrist watch from (defect at arrival, sent back for a replacement on agreement with seller - suddenly his account was removed and she never heard more about it - would have been cheaper to just toss the watch). So I'd have to say Caveat Emptor.Several places (like Brando) sells IDE interfaces that accepts CF cards etc. and looks like a regular HD to the system.