Society of Robots - Robot Forum
General Misc => Misc => Topic started by: Admin on May 06, 2007, 07:46:34 AM
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Ive noticed dozens of people on the forum mentioning that they have built (or almost built) the $50 robot. I am really curious what your robots look like and was wondering if any of you could share pics and video of your robot in action. Also, do you have tips for others that plan to build it?
(I will put this post link at the end of the tutorial for others to get ideas, too)
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I have but don't have a digi cam.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/RussianCommy/right.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/RussianCommy/trimetric.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/RussianCommy/boardtrimetric.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/RussianCommy/boardtop.jpg
Yes that's a gold ball :P
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hey i will be building it soon, and i will post images if i can find my camera
i just wanted to say thanks for such a great tutorial
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ed, thats a really nice CAD of the circuit board (waaaay better than mine that I threw together)
this was made in google sketchup, right?
im not sure how files are saved on it, but is there a way you could share your files with us?
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Thanks. I did it in solidworks. Your datasheets helped alot. The reason I made all the componets seperate is because i was planning on making an animation of the robot being put together. kinda like this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2ZQQRDmlJc)
if you get the viewer (http://www.edrawingsviewer.com/) you should be able to look at these (http://www.esnips.com/web/aleks138aleks138-SOR) files. (e-drawing came with solidworks, so I don't know if the downloaded version will work)
(you'll have to download all files for it to work properly)
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I and a few of my advanced physics students have got the $50 robot to work. (The rest are frustrated but are motivated to finish since they have seen the working robots. The robots avoiding shadows and following the flashlight are so cool)
It is an excellent path to learn the basics of soldering, trouble shooting circuits problems and software interfaces.
We are anxious to see if we can add more sensors to do other things.
Excellent work and effort to get your tutorial on the web site.
Thanks so much. I will send some pictures soon.
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Well, i'm going to build the 50$ robot. (Havn't ordered the parts yet)
http://earp.co.nr <-- A little blog about the robot :P
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Have everything except for the time! I have all the parts now which is awesome I finish exams in 2 wks and then summer holidays i plan to surf and build robots for 4 months!
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I haven't built that robot yet (I'm a little new to this - I have never built any :P), but i really want to build it, and I'm in the process of getting the components and even the money. Where I live, shipping costs a bit more, and I'm still quite and young (and broke ;D)
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whatever you do, don't cheap out on the programmer cable.
get the $34 one.
in the end you'll end up saving money
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I'm in the process of ordering the parts - sorta in the same spot as awally88, except I'm in the northern hemisphere preparing for Thanksgiving break. I plan on working on the $50 robot and my connect-4 playing robot over the upcoming breaks.
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I finished my robot during the summer and it was a great experience. (except the money part hehe
$120).
It kinda worked but not what I would call working. It kept like shaking then one wheel was going faster than the other (did I mess up the program?), so it went in circles and I think I overburned the photoresisitors with my mom's hairdryer (my fingers were burning like you wouldn't imagine from the hairdryer and it barely worked to heat sink). Overall it was a great experience, painful but really fun. HAHA.
I will try to post some pics of my robot, I will really try to post a video. I have a lot of homework now that I'm in high school so please don't get mad if I don't keep my promise. I took my robot apart but I made it easy to reassemble so that won't be a problem. I think I did a pretty nice job on my FIRST soldering. It was neat. I'll take a pic of it.
Random tip on building: when you push in the microcontroller into the IC socket, push evenly from each side with your thumbs and grab the perf board with other couple of fingers. That way pins won't bend. If you decide to take the microcontroller out, use a knife or something, put it in the hole between it and the board, push up to even heights from each side back and forth. Then it should slide out. I think I had that problem because I had no alligator clips to hold the IC socket for me and I soldered it in crooked. Then it (the microcontroller) was rough going in and out.
Right now I need to go to bed, so I can't put any pics right now. Will do as soon as I have free time.
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i've built plenty of robots that cost about $50 . but, it has cost me hundreds to get to that point :) .. for years, i would have dreams and purchase parts that i didn't need, or couldn't use .
most of the issue was finding suppliers for parts or building material . i was always looking for motorized wheel/track bases to build off of . but then i found geared motors and wheel sets . then i found hobby shops which carry model plastics and construction materials .
then i found hobby shops with cheaper and smaller servos
then i found screws and bolts and glues and hot glue guns .
now i can think of something, and really design/build it from ground up . i have been meaning to put together a check-list and how-to manual to get ppl started . to give suggestions of how to locate the building materials . where to look . and what to buy . what to look for . and how to prepare yourself to build your dream robot .
i'm always up to share any videos/photos/programming tips/circuits .. that's why i searched for a place like this ... :D
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i'm always up to share any videos/photos/programming tips/circuits .. that's why i searched for a place like this ...
I encourage posting anything inspiring or useful for others! :)
If you ever want to go all out, I can also set you up a members tutorial account (http://www.societyofrobots.com/member_tutorials/).
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i'm always up to share any videos/photos/programming tips/circuits .. that's why i searched for a place like this ...
I encourage posting anything inspiring or useful for others! :)
If you ever want to go all out, I can also set you up a members tutorial account (http://www.societyofrobots.com/member_tutorials/).
i'd like to take u up on that offer . i've been building robots for a while now but i've never belonged to a community before . this looks like a good place to start!
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my $50 robot is nearing $100. the hobby rc engineer in me makes me design all my drivetrains to stand up to the abuse i throw at my rc trucks... so i built mine on tracks, its been delayed forever but it WILL work by christmas!!! if not, ill have to buy a robot because i need it for my sophmore science fair... lol
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I've started to build the $50 robot. Just need to modify and mount the two servos. Will post photos once completed.
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WOOO HOOO!!! Finally done and in the nick of time.
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/robvandiver/50robot1.jpg)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/robvandiver/50robot2.jpg)
OK, i wanted to see if I could get away from the caster idea, and just create a underhung $50 robot that was able to "balance" without one. It worked fine with the photoresistors, besides wanting to do a wheelie when if first got turned on (servos must have type D motors??), and small oscillations when it was turning.
Unfortunately, when I upgraded it with the Sharp IR rangefinder, those small oscillations caused the sensor to see the ground. Not good, so I added the plastic angle up front as a kind of reverse wheelie bar. Seems to work fine!
I used a breadboard, so I had to accommodate for the size of the thing, making for a wide wheel base.
The bottom brackets I cut from some perforated metal that I took off a flat panel monitor, along with the plastic angle.
The plastic piece is a sample we got from work for a govt project, I have no idea what it is. It is 3/8" thick, but it weighs less than 1/4" nylon or lexan. I milled down the sides where I mounted the servos a bit to get some more head room, and milled out the center slot for the scanning servo. It is kind of a pain to mill plastic, because it has so much deflection it kept causing the piece to move or bend, making it chatter like crazy. Ill stick with metal from now on.
Anyways, now I plan to mess with the code a bit and turn it into a object-avoider. I think I can use most of the code from the edge finding Stampy Algorithm, but make the scanning servo continuously scan left and right, scans left when it detects an object while the robot turns right, then go straight and continue scanning when the object is past. Inside corners might be it's undoing, but I'll burn that bridge when I get to it.
OK, thanks a ton to Admin, airman00, and HDL Dragon for the help, and putting up with my noobish questions.
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Im so proud! :'( :D
don't forget to post a video, and maybe a tutorial when you get your 'object-avoider' code working ;D
as for those oscillations, if you put PID control on it, it shouldn't oscillate . . . PID basically removes the stop/start jerkiness that causes that problem
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wooty woot! IR, sonar, H bridge and programmer should be here by next saturday!
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http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/robvandiver/?action=view¤t=121107_1201.flv (http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/robvandiver/?action=view¤t=121107_1201.flv)
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/robvandiver/?action=view¤t=121107_1157.flv (http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/robvandiver/?action=view¤t=121107_1157.flv)
Hope those links work.
Ok, so this is $50 robot with the sharp IR rangefinder upgrade version 2: the object avoider.
Still working out some kinks, like I have to get the rangefinder with the longer range, and finding "the perfect range" to work with. Right now Im still autocalibrating it every time I turn it on. Im sure the code could be better, I just changed a couple of lines, but not too bad for someone that knows nothing about anything!
/****************************************************************************
*
* Copyright (c) 2007 www.societyofrobots.com
* (please link back if you use this code!)
*
* This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or modify
* it under the terms of the GNU General Public License version 2 as
* published by the Free Software Foundation.
*
* Alternatively, this software may be distributed under the terms of BSD
* license.
*
* $50 Robot with Sharp IR using Stampy Technology v1, May 19th, 2007
* Simple case-based method for a robot to do edge detection.
*
*
****************************************************************************/
//SoR Include
#include "SoR_Utils.h" //includes all the technical stuff
//global variables
int sharp_IR_reading=0;
int scan_thresh=0;//threshold value of scanning sensor
int scan_angle=30;//position of scanner, in units of servo command
int max_scan_angle=56;//maximum position scanner can rotate to (57)
//this function causes scanning servo to center on edge of object
void scan(void)
{
//lower (-) goes right
//higher (+) goes left
//30 far right, 50 straight, 56 far left (until it jams)
sharp_IR_reading=a2dConvert8bit(3);
if (sharp_IR_reading > scan_thresh)//object detected
{
if (scan_angle>41) //overflow protection
scan_angle-=2;//scan right
}
else //object not detected
{
if (scan_angle<=max_scan_angle) //maximum servo angle
scan_angle+=2; //scan left
else //if scanned all the way, this forces it to start over
scan_angle=30;
}
//servo scan code
servo_scan(scan_angle);
}
//automatically calculates threshold value before run
void autocalibrate(void)
{
scan_thresh=a2dConvert8bit(3);//sensor reading
}
int main(void)
{
//LED_on();
initialize();
delay_cycles(42000);//two second wait delay
/*********ADD YOUR CODE BELOW THIS LINE **********/
//find thresholds
autocalibrate();
//LED_off();
while(1)
{
scan();
if (sharp_IR_reading > scan_thresh)
robot_turn_right();
//object is centered
else
robot_go_straight();
delay_cycles(400);//a small delay to prevent crazy oscillations
}
/*********ADD YOUR CODE ABOVE THIS LINE **********/
return 0;
}
/*********************COMMAND LIST*************************
delay_cycles(cycles);
Delays - you can make your robot wait for a certain amount of time with this function.
Put the number of computational cycles to delay in the ().
23 cycles is about .992 milliseconds
to calculate: 23/.992*(time in milliseconds to delay) = cycles
Check servo datasheet where it says: 'Direction: Clockwise/Pulse Traveling 1500 to 1900usec'
servo_left(speed); and servo_right(speed);
Commands your servos to rotate at a certain speed.
Vary speed (which represents a delay in cycles) from 20 to 50.
Left is for port D0 and right is for port D1.
robot_turn_left(); and robot_turn_right(); and robot_go_straight();
Dont want to deal with speed?
Just call this function and it will 'just work.'
LED_on(); and LED_off();
Turns on and off your LED. The LED is on port D4.
By bringing port D4 low, you are turning on the LED.
variable=a2dConvert8bit(pin);
Reads analog pin. For example, set 'pin' to 5 to read PC5.
'variable' will store the value.
***********************************************************/
anyways, any suggestions for how I could make it work better or anything I did wrong are welcome!
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the links don't work
but it sounds cool
the problem is you uploaded them from your phone. When you upload it from your phone it only lasts like a few hours online before it gets auto deleted. When you upload it , save the image from the verizon site onto your desktop and then uplaod the image to photobucket or something.
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huh. Thats weak.
Oh well, live and learn. They should work now.
I need to get a better algorithm. It works fine with large objects (a wall), the scanner scans all the way left and the robot turns right until it is past. With small objects though, and with it looking for the left edge of the object, it is only reading the object / turning about half the time.
Right now Im going to put a small delay after the robot_turn_right() command to help smooth it out. This will cause overshooting sometimes, but it's a quick fix.
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I have been working on the $50 robot for about a month now; some good results, some weird, and some just plain hairpulling. It's been a while since I soldered anything so I had to recollect some tools that had been lost during a recent home move. All in all, the robot cost me over $50 (about $150 after reacquiring everything I needed :o).
A couple of observations first:
1. The design of the controller is actually quite good and has a lot of features that are available to you once you get use to programming the atmega8. The tutorials are great in that they can all be done with the Atmega8. Again, knowing the features and how to implement them is the key.
2. The programming can be a hassle and one can easily lock up the chip (as listed in other posts on this site plus others). If you lock up a chip, don't feel bad..a lot of people have done it.
3. My first board did not work correctly because of being too congested underneath (too many wires and using wires that were too big). I stripped all the components off and put them on a proto board (RadioShack). I also split the power from being just 4 AA batteries to the battery pack for the servos, plus a +9v battery (to drive the electronics) - both are rechargeable. Adding a switch to control the electronics (and using the built in switch on the battery pack) is the way to go.
4. Someone else mentioned that one has to build the programmer before setting the servos to 0 using the hex file. This is actually a good way to learn both the programming steps and how to modify the servos. This was actually my first success with programming the chip using the soldered board. Just getting the board to be detected by the software was a thrill after so many attempts. Reading through the formum posts here helped me a great deal.
5. I took the concept of using chop sticks and used kabob sticks for my platform and the Digikey box for my wheels (figuring I bought so much from Digikey). Its not very sturdy, but it proved the concept (I'll post picture at end of post).
I'll also use all the components for a future project. I am going to work through the other tutorials (RS232, UARt, Vision, etc) so these parts will go a long way. Good choice for a first robot!
6. Now the programming- the biggest piece of advice would be to NOT load up the AVR software until the AVR programmer is plugged in with the green light on, AND the microcontroller development board you just built is turned ON. You will know it is turned ON when both lights of the AVR programmer (6 pin USB) are green. Thanks for all the posts about 6 pin vs. 10 pin and the pinouts of the programmer. Again, this helped a great deal. Also, once you have a decent project, you can use the CONN icon on the tool bar (that lets you muddle things up if you are not careful) OR as I found out by accident, you can use the Tools/AVR Prog on the tool bar (which is a lot easier). I recommend using the AVR Prog selection for everyone who is not yet comfortable with all the bells and whistles of the AVR software.
7. I thought I had some bad atmega8 chips because they would never let me enter the programming mode (using the AVR USB programmer- $35 Digikey). I used a serial port programmer today and was able to recover 3 out of 4 chips. Now this was using the AVR Prog dialog box (Tools/AVR Prog) on the main window. All one has to do is point to the correct *.hex file and it erases what is on your chip, writes the new program, and then verifies that it is correct. Really painless.
Those are my thoughts so far. Attached is a picture of my completed beastie.
Mike
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http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/robvandiver/?action=view¤t=121107_1201.flv (http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/robvandiver/?action=view¤t=121107_1201.flv)
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/robvandiver/?action=view¤t=121107_1157.flv (http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/robvandiver/?action=view¤t=121107_1157.flv)
Hope those links work.
Ok, so this is $50 robot with the sharp IR rangefinder upgrade version 2: the object avoider.
Still working out some kinks, like I have to get the rangefinder with the longer range, and finding "the perfect range" to work with. Right now Im still autocalibrating it every time I turn it on. Im sure the code could be better, I just changed a couple of lines, but not too bad for someone that knows nothing about anything!
/****************************************************************************
*
* Copyright (c) 2007 www.societyofrobots.com
* (please link back if you use this code!)
*
* This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or modify
* it under the terms of the GNU General Public License version 2 as
* published by the Free Software Foundation.
*
* Alternatively, this software may be distributed under the terms of BSD
* license.
*
* $50 Robot with Sharp IR using Stampy Technology v1, May 19th, 2007
* Simple case-based method for a robot to do edge detection.
*
*
****************************************************************************/
//SoR Include
#include "SoR_Utils.h" //includes all the technical stuff
//global variables
int sharp_IR_reading=0;
int scan_thresh=0;//threshold value of scanning sensor
int scan_angle=30;//position of scanner, in units of servo command
int max_scan_angle=56;//maximum position scanner can rotate to (57)
//this function causes scanning servo to center on edge of object
void scan(void)
{
//lower (-) goes right
//higher (+) goes left
//30 far right, 50 straight, 56 far left (until it jams)
sharp_IR_reading=a2dConvert8bit(3);
if (sharp_IR_reading > scan_thresh)//object detected
{
if (scan_angle>41) //overflow protection
scan_angle-=2;//scan right
}
else //object not detected
{
if (scan_angle<=max_scan_angle) //maximum servo angle
scan_angle+=2; //scan left
else //if scanned all the way, this forces it to start over
scan_angle=30;
}
//servo scan code
servo_scan(scan_angle);
}
//automatically calculates threshold value before run
void autocalibrate(void)
{
scan_thresh=a2dConvert8bit(3);//sensor reading
}
int main(void)
{
//LED_on();
initialize();
delay_cycles(42000);//two second wait delay
/*********ADD YOUR CODE BELOW THIS LINE **********/
//find thresholds
autocalibrate();
//LED_off();
while(1)
{
scan();
if (sharp_IR_reading > scan_thresh)
robot_turn_right();
//object is centered
else
robot_go_straight();
delay_cycles(400);//a small delay to prevent crazy oscillations
}
/*********ADD YOUR CODE ABOVE THIS LINE **********/
return 0;
}
/*********************COMMAND LIST*************************
delay_cycles(cycles);
Delays - you can make your robot wait for a certain amount of time with this function.
Put the number of computational cycles to delay in the ().
23 cycles is about .992 milliseconds
to calculate: 23/.992*(time in milliseconds to delay) = cycles
Check servo datasheet where it says: 'Direction: Clockwise/Pulse Traveling 1500 to 1900usec'
servo_left(speed); and servo_right(speed);
Commands your servos to rotate at a certain speed.
Vary speed (which represents a delay in cycles) from 20 to 50.
Left is for port D0 and right is for port D1.
robot_turn_left(); and robot_turn_right(); and robot_go_straight();
Dont want to deal with speed?
Just call this function and it will 'just work.'
LED_on(); and LED_off();
Turns on and off your LED. The LED is on port D4.
By bringing port D4 low, you are turning on the LED.
variable=a2dConvert8bit(pin);
Reads analog pin. For example, set 'pin' to 5 to read PC5.
'variable' will store the value.
***********************************************************/
anyways, any suggestions for how I could make it work better or anything I did wrong are welcome!
just checking so could i just copy and paste the code to my ATmega 8 board and it will be a obstacle avoider
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I have, it's actually a $300 robot though (corporately sponsored for a science fair project), but it looks similar to the $50 robot and borrows the water bottle as a third point of balance idea, which I thought was hilarious.
It's a ground-based prototype to test my autopilot code and will ultimately be a UAV based on the Multiplex Easy Star Airframe.
It uses the Basic Stamp 2, Parallax GPS Receiver, parallax Servo Controller, and uM-fpu v2 floating point coprocessor. (camera is an Aiptek SD 1.3 pencam, $20)
http://www.project-uav.net/images/prototype-top.jpg
http://www.project-uav.net/images/prototype-complete2.jpg
http://www.project-uav.net/images/prototype-complete1.jpg
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He's alive !!!
I have finished and tested my 50$ robot.
Here are some pics. I post video this week-end.
http://public.fotki.com/DanielPoirier/50-robot-alive-!/ (http://public.fotki.com/DanielPoirier/50-robot-alive-!/)
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He's alive !!!
I have finished and tested my 50$ robot.
Here are some pics. I post video this week-end.
http://public.fotki.com/DanielPoirier/50-robot-alive-!/ (http://public.fotki.com/DanielPoirier/50-robot-alive-!/)
nice clean job! Is this your first robot?
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He's alive !!!
I have finished and tested my 50$ robot.
Here are some pics. I post video this week-end.
http://public.fotki.com/DanielPoirier/50-robot-alive-!/ (http://public.fotki.com/DanielPoirier/50-robot-alive-!/)
whats attached to the cd wheels
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Yes it's my first robot, electronic, soldering etc project. I have a background with R/C and computer but never do electronic thing like that. The feeling when i switch on the switch the first time was amazing.
To add traction on CD i glued a stripe of under carpet stuff ( sorry if it's not the correct word, i'm not really good in english ).
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I've completed the 50$ robot tutorial and it was great! I actually built the circuit for a competition, I gave it a body that doesn't allow it to turn (you get points in the competition for how straight it travels) once I figure out how to program what I want, I'll put some pics and maybe a video on! Thanks for the great tutorial Admin!
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I finally get some video of my 50$ robot.
[youtube]rIwnzzO7kzQ[/youtube]
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thats crazy cool!
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awesome job SgtToad i think I'm going to use a design like that for mine well ill be building mine soon ill post a pic of it or something video
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Just ordered all the parts. I am a computer science student in the UK, so naturally I paid UK prices :D It cost me about £50 in total, which is about $100, but I was expecting that because prices in the UK are about double, especially for electronic components and stuff.
I will be making this (my first robot) as soon as the parts arrive and will post some pictures and stuff once I get it built!
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Am also in the UK so can also recommend suppliers I use for HDPE for chassis etc as that is not covered in the 'old' supplier stuff on the site.
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I too, just ordered my parts (yesterday). I havent started anything because I want to get correct measurements on everything for my laser cut pieces.
Ill show some photos of my progress once I get something worth sharing :P
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no1name.zoomshare.com (http://no1name.zoomshare.com)
This has a few pictures of my robot.
But they are a little out of date, due to the fact I have now bought most of the parts and began applying them to my board...
Infact these pictures don't even have back wheels...hmmmm
I will upgrade them soon, and eventually post a video.
As for advice... I can only offer it if you live in Australia
1 Buy your microcontrollers off the internet. (don't bother trying to find them in a shop) I bought a pack of 5 atmega8 for $10
2 Expect your $50 robot to be $100, mine isn't even finished and i have already spent $78
3 Advice for anyone Try not to use a breadboard! unfortunately my chasi was found on the side of the rode and had a built in breadboard, but plz try to avoid. They (from my experience) are very hard to use (due to the fact of how they are wired up underneath the holes) you can still do it, but with more difficulty.
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Hey guys! Just finished my $50 robot and wanted to upload for everyone to see. I setup an erector set and mounted the battery pack and circuit board on top. I hope you guys like it! Check out the video below :)
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDkXXpCU7AI[/youtube]
- Will
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a cool thing to do now is to take in into a dark room and use a flashlight to control it remotely. Just point a flashlight on the left photoresistor to turn left, etc.
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Cool. ;)
Just got the last pieces today so I'm going to start my 50€ robot next week-end ( exam on friday :( )
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I'm putting this post up of pics of my $50 robot (about time)
I'll be modifying it as I get more content for you guys.
edit: I just made the album public so you can click on the thumbs for larger images.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/brandtdaniels/SFnFFYjrNxI/AAAAAAAAACE/2-aA-fZ8Qj8/s144/Photo%20352.jpg) (http://picasaweb.google.com/brandtdaniels/Robot/photo?authkey=ayrX-S7VrPg#5213414739940161298)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/brandtdaniels/SFnFFdIf7oI/AAAAAAAAACM/szL12EcAYXA/s144/Photo%20359.jpg) (http://picasaweb.google.com/brandtdaniels/Robot/photo?authkey=ayrX-S7VrPg#5213414741168352898)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/brandtdaniels/SFnKkFMhFJI/AAAAAAAAACg/tj1Ozi4tuAY/s144/DSC03206.JPG) (http://picasaweb.google.com/brandtdaniels/Robot/photo?authkey=ayrX-S7VrPg#5213420764876838034)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/brandtdaniels/SFnFFsPp8jI/AAAAAAAAACU/4_HSSXPGSvM/s144/Photo%20362.jpg) (http://picasaweb.google.com/brandtdaniels/Robot/photo?authkey=ayrX-S7VrPg#5213414745224901170)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/brandtdaniels/SFnKkV2OuFI/AAAAAAAAACo/pXTUtoXfSoY/s144/DSC03207.JPG) (http://picasaweb.google.com/brandtdaniels/Robot/photo?authkey=ayrX-S7VrPg#5213420769346762834)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/brandtdaniels/SF6yvcsqFCI/AAAAAAAAAC4/DOjqUIezjbQ/s144/0622081310.jpg) (http://picasaweb.google.com/brandtdaniels/Robot/photo?authkey=ayrX-S7VrPg#5214801946768708642)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/brandtdaniels/SF60EHoLB9I/AAAAAAAAADU/DrqeqvghC-E/s144/0622081309b.jpg) (http://picasaweb.google.com/brandtdaniels/Robot/photo?authkey=ayrX-S7VrPg#5214803401401632722)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/brandtdaniels/SF60ENoRiOI/AAAAAAAAADY/OXQoPok4VjI/s144/0622081309a.jpg) (http://picasaweb.google.com/brandtdaniels/Robot/photo?authkey=ayrX-S7VrPg#5214803403012671714)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/brandtdaniels/SF60EQElQrI/AAAAAAAAADc/stpDPEH3zKY/s144/0622081309.jpg) (http://picasaweb.google.com/brandtdaniels/Robot/photo?authkey=ayrX-S7VrPg#5214803403668275890)
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ok seriously! could someone plz plz plz (im begging) post me two hitec 311 servoes!!! i beg beg beg!
it's frigin $60 for four over here!
I just don't have that kinda money! out of the blue!
im seriously starting to consider wether robotics is what i should be into!
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thats bad but i had to pay $41 for 2 when i got mine
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Ouch....
Im still begging :D
Not really, but i still have to come up with an idea...
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I just bought all the parts to start. I only paid $23.93 for two Hitec HS-311 Servo's at ServoCity. So far, total cost of parts: $96.15
But thats because I order extra parts like two ATmega8 AVR. Now all I need to do is think about frame and body design. I going to keep a progress log with videos and pictures on my blog. I can't wait ;D
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Just for future info...
You can usually get great deals on servo's off ebay.
I just bought 18 standard servos (Acoms not hitec but work the same) for £2.40 each ($4.80).
Acoms standard servo's are excellent replacements for normal standard servo's but at a fraction of the price and they seem to be a regular thing on ebay too.
Ive also created a simple solution for mounting servos, ill probably do a tutorial on it shortly
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Off topic: but exactly which el-cheapo brands are good from eBay, and which are pieces of crap?
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Private Reid:
I too live in Australia, and have the same problem. $15 for a HS-311 servo is the cheapest I've found. And you can't get any cheaper. I tried to pick up some cheaper ones from Jaycar (cheaper after postage and handling) and found they can't be modified. :( I've outlayed over $200 so far for the $50 robot. Mind you, that includes extra servos, an AVRISPII programmer, and other miscellaneous items, that can be used again. It does seem however that price comparison don't quite match the exchange rate at the moment. In Australia everything seems to be double what you would pay in America. But, hey, it keeps me off the streets at night.
As a general statement, I have a couple of obsolete computers, that not only have I stripped these for Molex connectors (and can anyone tell me how to strip the wire out of them), I've also used the case for brackets etc, and a CD drive case as the body of my robot. I'm also looking at anything else I can strip from them.
Oh and: Its Alive! Somehow I've managed to stumble through the $50 robot tutorial (with a few hiccough along the way) and it actually works. So, thank you Admin, for providing the tutorial and the site. Hopefully I'll post some pics, and a video tomorrow (or should I say today, its after midnight).
Cheers,
Lycus
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Off topic: but exactly which el-cheapo brands are good from eBay, and which are pieces of crap?
Ive been using Acoms as17 as a replacement for normal standard servos and Acoms as12 for slightly smaller servos.
they havent let me down yet and ive been using them extensively.....
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Thanks, Lycus
I tried Jaycar as well
The "50$" bot -- American or Similar
The "200$" bot -- Australian
Australia is just not set up for robotics...
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OMG!!!!! I am making the controller and its definitely harder than it looks lol
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Well, here is my$50 robot (AUD$120). As stated earlier, I used an old CD drive case, wires and connectors from an old computer and wheels from an old RC car. Check out the video.
[youtube=425,350]xANzDGPNxq0[/youtube]
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It took me a couple of day but I finally finished my $50 Robot. I don't have a video camera so i can't do video, but here is a picture:
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/marksbrown/SKru2Ylgn6I/AAAAAAAABJU/EBqacCHrATw/s400/DSC_0003.JPG)
I wrote up the details about my robot in my blog at the following links:
Electronics:
http://marksproject.blogspot.com/2008/08/my-first-brain.html
Chassis:
http://marksproject.blogspot.com/2008/08/impatience-strikes.html
Finished Product:
http://marksproject.blogspot.com/2008/08/one-down-millions-to-go.html
This was a blast to build and really got me excited to build more.
Mark Brown
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Got all the electronics in today at work (digikey overnighted some of it even though i paid for 3 day) so I will be building the chasis/wheels strictly out of cardboard until I can find a better substitute.
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it would bring me great joy to see a tupperware $50 robot
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I starte d to build the 50$ robot about 2 weeks ago. I orderd the servos and I got them. I have build the board for the microprocessor (with a lot of stress). but I couldn`t find the Programmer. I found a drawing of avr-pg1 cable that works with PonyPong and I have build it too, but it doesnt work. PonyPong sais Test failed every time I try to search for the plugged cable. Here is the picture. Can you tell me if this cable could work?
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it would bring me great joy to see a tupperware $50 robot
It might anger my wife to steal a suitable tupperware container but in the name of science and your joy, I'll steal it tonight!
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or you could use one of those cheaper glad/ziplock ones that come with lunchmeat nowadays
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or you could use one of those cheaper glad/ziplock ones that come with lunchmeat nowadays
Don't deny me my right of angering my wife over something trivial. Plus, they are much sturdier and should support future product better. I may also be able to waterproof most of the joins so it could go for a swim in the bathtub!
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yeah and attach some paddle wheels
[img width= height=]http://www.rceasy.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/4741_01_jp.jpg[/img]
$50 duck boat
[img width= height=]http://www.gbpflag.org/files/46/_photos/Duck%20boat%20leading%20the%202006%20Youth%20Pride%20parade.jpg[/img]
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Excellent.
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Don't deny me my right of angering my wife over something trivial.
Its every mans privelidge!
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hello people, i live in england London and i discoverd this website not long ago and thought " ouuuu wouldn't a robot like this one look nice on my personal statement??" and i decided to start!! first of all this project isn't only about my P.S. because i honestly like evrything that has to do with elecrtonics etc.: i've modyfied my psp, earphones, pc, ipod etc... and now, brace yourselves MY Project!!:
http://s538.photobucket.com/albums/ff345/reubeu16/
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i've built it it works good except for the led light dont work ???
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Ed1380,
You've got a link to my page for the $50 robot as your signature!
I'm honoured!
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I finally put my $50 dollar robot together. I am working on some of the last minute things. The body is made from a box for now. I have asked a few questions getting to this point and I am sure there will be many more to come.
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/Waymental/100_4154.jpg)(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/Waymental/100_4153.jpg)
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/Waymental/100_4155.jpg)(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/Waymental/100_4152.jpg)
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Im gonno build soon, should cost me about £45.04 excluding velcro, some good plastic (for base ect...), and ill need to buy wire (well its in the misc list),
ill post pics when i got em =D, also it would be interesting to see a code which programed the robot to go away from light i imagine this could be easy but havnt learnt the programming lanhuage for the robots yet!
Thanks
Joe
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it would be interesting to see a code which programed the robot to go away from light
just reverse the side you put the photocells on
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it would be interesting to see a code which programed the robot to go away from light
just reverse the side you put the photocells on
I would prefer a CODE which could do this as i want to keep the same robot; also do any of you have a link for a programming tutorial in AVR Studio 4.
Thanks
Joe
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I'm compiling a playlist of all the $50 Robot videos you guys have made. Please post them here to get yours included!
(expect a lot of hits to your videos) ;D
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Finally, after a few months of research, reading the tutorials and waiting on money/parts deliveries, I have completed my $50 robot. For me, the total expense was over $200 due to the things I needed for the project (Soldering Iron, Multi-Meter, Work Light, Went with the $34 AVR ISP MkII Prog, etc), and shipping.
It was a great learning experience, and I really enjoyed it even though I pulled my hair out multiple times and I am now taking Rogaine.
Initially I built a board before I had ordered my servos and IR sensors. This was also before I invested in a pair of wire strippers because I thought I could rough it with the "Lighter and Fingernail/Bite" stripping method. I didn't exactly know what went wrong with this board, but it was obviously my wiring. In the end, I popped two ATMega168's and decided to rebuild the board using strippers and my gained experience from the first attempt.
The second board came out much better, and its nearly identical to the one depicted in the tutorial. I'm being lazy this evening, so I'll post pictures later.
I also had ordered a few replacement chips, two ATMega8's and two ATMega168's. I figured out the hard way that the hold_servo.hex wasn't compiled for the ATMega168, and I think for some reason the 168 was causing me to have issues programming from AVR Studio to the Microcontroller. I am currently using the ATMega8 for simplicity sake in uploading the stock code from the tutorials.
This beast is made out of velcro, electrical tape, super glue, and left-over plastic from an HP 1210 all-in-one printer I dismantled. The wheels were stolen from a cool toy I bought at goodwill for $1, and had two of each wheel on two separate arms, for a total of four (duh). I initially wanted to modify each arm to use for differential drive without a castor (similar to a track system but with wheels). But, the slower RPM of the servo during code run time combined with the gear set of the toy arms, at full speed each toy wheel spun extremely slow and would've made the bot crawl. So I directly mounted the wheels with some screws I had that fit the whole in the stock round servo-horn.
Currently I have tested it with the $50 Stampy IR Code:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0XD0QeoLuI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0XD0QeoLuI)
And the wall avoidance code mod for the $50 IR(http://www.societyofrobots.com/robotforum/index.php?topic=3542.0 (http://www.societyofrobots.com/robotforum/index.php?topic=3542.0)):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvLb-lxiKMY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvLb-lxiKMY)
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ahhh crappy video:
http://www.vimeo.com/3293393
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hey guys heres my first autonomus bot
i know it looks damn ghetto but its good for a kid
i will be adding the photosensors soon
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hey how are they?
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Nice and neat...have to say. Does anyone combined these parts with lego ?
I just finished the controller board today (still waiting for the ATmega168 though) soldering.
I am thinking of borrowing some lega parts from my son , because I want to create an alternative for the mindstorm (looks nice, but much money and limited).
Did anyone try this before ? May be some tips to share ?
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After a couple of weeks I've finally finished my robot! It was fun to work on and it's great to see it working after all the time I put into it. My main problem was finding all the parts in the Netherlands because I had almost no experience with electronics. But hey, it worked out alright.. although I' d rather not look at the price tag at the moment...
There is only one thing that I really do not understand. Why is the code given stating " LED_off()" where it should have been "LED_on()"? In the commentary besides it even says "turn LED on". This really puzzled me for a while because I saw the LED flashing on for a moment and then it stayed off. Of course a good look at the code helped out, but it would seem logical to me to have the correct function in the code, especially with the high level of beginners making this robot (including myself).
The rest of the tutorial was really helpful to me, you have my compliments.
Now, some pictures and a video:
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/Finnik/50%20dollar%20robot/DSC_4033.jpg)
(http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/Finnik/50%20dollar%20robot/DSC_4025.jpg)
(http://s625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/Finnik/50%20dollar%20robot/?action=view¤t=MVI_7079.flv)
Follow this link (http://s625.photobucket.com/albums/tt338/Finnik/50%20dollar%20robot/) for more pictures.
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pictures:
(http://www.sossamandental.com/images/50robot.jpg)
(http://www.sossamandental.com/images/50robot2.jpg)
(http://www.sossamandental.com/images/50robot3.jpg)
Robot costed way more than $50, but it was fun. I've got it configured for the UART but not the bootloader yet. Just ordered the Sharp IR Rangefinder and some IR LED/Detectors as well to play with some simple line following.
I want to eventually have a rearwheel drive/frontwheel steering car that can follow lines. Going to go for vision eventually as well, but figured I would try the IR stuff (it's a hell of a lot cheaper and the wife isn't super pleased with my robot budget).
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wow man that looks great, props to you!
i like the way you mounted the cds cells!
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I just finished the (slightly more than) $50 robot. I got all the parts from your list, and the AVR mkII programmer. the build was strait forward, using the recommended schematics/links. the major snag i ran into was with the AVR Studio software. I followed your instructions, but ran into the same problem after checking and double checking and redoing the steps for programming. I am running Windows Vista 64 bit, and was getting
Photovore_v1.c:108: fatal error: opening dependency file .dep/Photovore_v1.o.d: No such file or directory
compilation terminated.
make: *** [Photovore_v1.o] Error 1
Build failed with 1 errors and 0 warnings...
and the missing stepchild or whatever the other common error is... ;D. I posted a question about it, but then after more searching, i found http://www.madwizard.org/electronics/articles/winavrvista. (http://www.madwizard.org/electronics/articles/winavrvista.) the directions tell you to replace a .dll file in the WinAVR \utils\bin folder. that fixed the problem right away.
a second problem i had was that the LED wouldn't come on after programing; pin 6 i think it is D4 which changes state to turn on the LED was staying at 5 vdc. I looked thru the code and changed the line that says
LED_off();//turn LED on
to
LED_on();//turn LED on
that fixed the state of pin 6, but my LED was backwards, so i changed polarity, problem solved. the rest is history, i used a switch plate cover for the chassis, velcro'ed the servos and battery, rubber banded on the waterbottle, plugged it in, and away it went.
total time spent was about 10 hours, not including all the reading i did ahead of time to see what the common problems were etc... Im sure i could spend a few more hours making a not so ghetto chassis.
thanks for the $50 robot plans, i think I'm going to have alto of fun with this new hobby.
Jesse
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The very fact that you had issues, but have managed to solve them because you understood the issues, means that you are set up for a long and fruitful future in robotics.
Well done. And why not post a 'vid' of your new beast!
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well, being in australia, twas slightly more than a $50 bot, but I did it.
old CD cases and ide cables for sensor wire, mechano wheels and support.
seems the atmega8 is slightly thicker than the standard IC sockets, so it does not sit well and will jump out if bumped to hard. I had to bend the pins inwards just for it to fit.....
anyways, I am now making my first PCB to correct this, and to upgrade the sensors.
edited for correction.....
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Nice work!
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it looks pretty damn good, and you made it look like awesome piece of work.
And another fellow Aussie
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what do you mean by "seems the atmega8 is slightly thinner than the standard IC sockets", mine sat fine in its socket, are you sure you got the right socket, can you provide some pics?
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i tried to build it but i messed up the building the microcontroller part
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Its normal for the pins on the Atmega chips to be slightly "wider" than the IC socket. Unless im mistakes, im pretty sure admin mentioned in the $50 bot tut that you have to bend the pins on the Atmega8 for them to fit nicely into the socket.
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what do you mean by "seems the atmega8 is slightly thinner than the standard IC sockets", mine sat fine in its socket, are you sure you got the right socket, can you provide some pics?
oh, was tired put that the wrong way around. the socket is thinner than the chip, they are at least 1mm slightly wider. Jaycar said they would not get the atmel-socket in (unless I order like 500 of them....) so tis a home job.
metal slug, it still wont fit snug.....oh, well.....
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well, you could always solder the chip directly to the board next time.
i ordered my socket from futurlec... i barely ever use jaycar unless its for hookup wire...
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where do you get your etchibg acid from, futurlec to
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nope, dick smith, potassium chloride... this isn't the right place to be discussing this ;)
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It works :D
A few weeks ago I was thinking I should try to get a hobby, maybe making something. Soon the ideas of robots came to mind, as it involves putting things together (which I have not done much of, and wanted to do a bit), electronics (which I know in theory and have a little experience in from college lab work, but never did anything at home - but it always have been fascinating me, and I have wanted to learn more) and programming (which I do for a living).
So after a quick google search, I found the tutorials here, and decided to try to build the 50$ robot. It ended up costing quite a bit more (particularly since I had to get all the tools I've been using too, and prices are higher here in Norway generally), but finally today I got something to work!
The main challenge was to get the light sensors to work. I didn't find photoresistors, but found some photo diodes. But after a couple of tries, and studying the theory of the current to voltage conversion and doing the math, I finally got it to work. I am not 100% satisfied with the sensitivity, but at least I can guide the robot around with a flashlight now.
Here are some pictures:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3449/3777921339_0f489fcd1c.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3529/3778725636_855be47b25.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2573/3777922175_25f853b2ed.jpg)
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cv5ocZnG024[/youtube]
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nice job tif, it looks like a great robot. And well made to. ;D
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I built the $50 robot, but could not get my board to work. I built the board three times lol ! I found out many months later it was a programmer problem . I had to do a manual firmware update on my ispmkii. I was unlucky enough to have gotten my programmer out of a batch that had bad firmware. Anyways that caused me to buy an arduino which is why this bot uses one. This is definitely the worst robot I've ever created. Its fun looking where I came from though.
$50 robot, the first bot I ever built
[youtube]vCjoMvmK33A[/youtube]
Then there is woody who proved to be a very cool platform
[youtube]SgPHQ5h_wlQ[/youtube]
GatorKS is my latest
[youtube]pcNQixSV63A[/youtube]
I've built 7 robots so far, more depending how you count. The $50 robot is where it all began.
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Pictures and my tutorial
http://mshorter.blogspot.com/ (http://mshorter.blogspot.com/)
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I had higher caliber parts lying around when I did a robot in the style of the $50 one. E.g. an axon and a separate servo controller.
And Legos.
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~erelson/Images/Photovore01.png (http://www-personal.umich.edu/~erelson/Images/Photovore01.png)
I did that summer 08. (I did this (http://www-personal.umich.edu/~erelson/files/PA020221.JPG) summer 09)
There are two photoresistors, so the robot is a photovore. There's a touch sensor mechanism at the front too. It's a simple pcb button removed from some old electronics. I added a third servo for steering, which was fun too. The axon uses the sensors, and sends signals to the servo controller to control the servo. That sort of makes me lazy :) (aka no looping to continuously tell the servos what position to be in)
And I chose Legos because... I just build stuff as I go, frequently, rather than do both the designing and building separately.
Could have sworn I had more pics, but I never got around to following up on the bot. It's still down in the basement.
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Well, I finished my $50 Robot about a week ago, but I don't have a camera to take pictures.
I used the HS-322SD instead of the HS-311 because it had Karbonite gears.
I used ABS "6 wheels instead of cardboard for obvious reasons.
I used Shapelock for body, caster, and servo mount because I don't have access to machinery.
I used regular AA batts instead of a battery pack because AA's are just awesome.
Time spent soldering- 7hrs (Yes, I suck at it)
Time spent actually programming- 10 mins
Time spent troubleshooting the programming- 15hrs
Time spent modifying servos- 2hrs
Time spent shaping body- 3hrs
Time spent building- 30 mins
Time spent playing with it- 10 hrs and rising.
Great tutorial!
LOCO ROBO
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photovore_1.avi (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WBaIoQjMnE#)
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I was really lazy and only build the electronics part. I also did it in a breadboard. I just wanted it to work ASAP so yeah. =p
Mines really ghetto. =p I'm going to dismantle it soon enough. =p
It's a nice tutorial to start with. It's really easy and will give beginners some result.
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Would just like to thank those who put up this tutorial and website. It is really informative and user friendly especially for someone like me who has been wanting to do robotics for ages but just never got around to it
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I built mine a year or two ago...but never did manage to post it. I'm thinking that maybe I'd like to try another robot soon. It was a fun experience. Thanks to everyone who made the tutorial possible.
(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo7/alystric/PIC_0059.jpg)
(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo7/alystric/PIC_0061.jpg)
URL] (http://s356.photobucket.com/albums/oo7/alystric/?action=view¤t=Mouse.flv)
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Yup, I got mine to work. But... I kinda cheated. I made it with an Arduino. In my defence, i had to translate all the code into a new language haha. It doesnt really get "stuck" in a box of light, but it follows a flashlight. I then upgraded it, and now it has sonar and IR sensors! So, technically now its an obstacle avoider... and cost more then 50$...
PICS!
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww36/Parkour_dude/DSCN1084.jpg)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww36/Parkour_dude/DSCN1085.jpg)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww36/Parkour_dude/DSCN1086.jpg)
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how did the caster wheel go?
i have a side project and i need a caster and i didnt even think of a caster like that.
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Mine? The castor works quite well. I found it at home depot, there was a bunch of bins of them for different weights. They were between 2-5$ each. I think mine is rated for 10 pounds. Kinda overkill for a robot thats 1 pound, but it was the right size.
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Is the breadboard on top only for power distribution?
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For now... I'm sure ill find uses for it in the future. It seemed like a good thing to add. For now, Im working on line sensing, and color sensors.
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Here's mine....it cost me way more than $50 though......
Ned the Photovore (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxjPaSuo67g#ws)
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I have finished my first robot too, it costed me about 80 euros because I live in Belgium. I hope it isn't the last one. I think it's OK, only the battery is a Little bit oversized.
Here are some pictures:
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Hello,
I have built this robot, it isnt the 50$ robot and i cheated
by using the arduino ,but in my defense a programmer would
have been really expensive to ship here.
here is a video of it in action.Ive already made a separate topic in the robot videos area. i hope
im not spamming, if you think i am, ill delete this.
Arduino Robot with Sharp IR (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLkMKi56mjE#)
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I tried to keep to the minimalist spirit of the project. I hugely altered the code, and did not use SoRUtils or Webbotlib. The sensors are mounted under the chassis so that it only follows light on the ground. This setup allows the bot to be controlled by a flashlight beam it follows.
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This is my first try to make robot, ;D
Photovore robot (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nwWEb8riTE#ws)
thanks societyofrobots