okayOh, lol. I just realized that people will assume I'm leaving the backs and sides open. I just left it like that, so people can clearly see the internals. I think I'm going to enclose the entire thing, then put a hinge on the top, so I can open the "roof" of the bot, to change batteries, turn it on, etc.
put spacers at the back to help hold the roof
make it only as big as needed- you can stack circut boards and batterys ontop of each other to save space. this helps with weight. make it more arodinamik.
get some high friction aircraft tires
for HDPE you can use cutting boards
for connecting HDPE you can use screws
make it look cool! ;D
you can see I really wanted to make this as simple as possible, and build it without a microcontroller, is there any essential task that this will provide that my remote-control robot will need, or can I do without one, if I get a speed controller?You can do all this without a microcontroller. In fact, it would be really hard to accomplish any of those tasks with a microcontroller! If you use DC motors, you will need an ESC (electronic speed controller). If you use servos, you won't.
the guy said that adhesives don't really work that well too, so what is the way to go here?It has a lot to do with the materials you plan to bond, and forces involved. Double sided sticky tape and velcro bond very well to HDPE . . . but you should use screws to be more professional/reliable ;D
As with choosing the motors, if you use the calculator to determine how much force you need to move your robot, this will be sufficient but unfortunately it wont take into account the fact that you would need to push another robot out of the way, you would want resulting torque to be at least 250% of the value that you get in order to counteract the forces produced by puching the other robot/ car out of the way.
When it comes to speed, this can be achieved using effective gearing which is where you really need to look for your speed/ torque requirements.
Have you considered doing 4 wheel drive (four motors)?
What RMF do you desire?
So I don't know whether I should be consulting the RMF Calculator like its some all-powerful motor deity , or go with my gut, and just buy some motors that are close to my RMF, and look "powerful" in comparison to others.You don't want to go with gut feeling when the math is already done for you :P
I will need 2 speed controllers, correct? Because I was looking at the wiring, and I think you need one for each motor. Not 100% sure though.correct
I found this beast, that gives me an RMF of 4.43 = wayyy more than I need. But is this overkill?Nice find! So your RMF is .6 but that motor gives 4.4? (I'm assuming you did the calculations both in english units?)
I'll add this to my growing list of part websites.Those were already in my list :P
Also I was wondering what is up with this transmitter: http://www.servocity.com/html/ranger_2n.html It's cheap, but it looks like the control stick on the right side only goes left and right...not up or down, not exactly easy to use for a differential drive bot...One is meant for throttle and the other for direction. It'll work, but will be annoying to use.
One more thing: http://www.robotshop.ca/home/products/robot-parts/motor-controllers/brushed-motor-controllers/all-brushed-motor-controllers/index.html I'm a little intimidated by things that look like circuit boards because I automatically assume complicated things are associated with them, but do these motor controllers standalone or do they hook up with a microcontroller?Make sure in the datasheet that it says specifically that it can accept an RC signal. Some of those drivers can be used with microcontrollers as well as RC. The dimension engineering ones can do all of the above, and some can do two motors.
Because I'm looking at this one: http://www.robotshop.ca/home/products/robot-parts/motor-controllers/brushed-motor-controllers/all-brushed-motor-controllers/solutions-cubed-motor-mind-c.htmlIt can do RC, but you will need one for each motor. Also, are you sure 2.25A is enough for your motors?
And it looks pretty good, I don't mind soldering either.
QuoteBecause I'm looking at this one: http://www.robotshop.ca/home/products/robot-parts/motor-controllers/brushed-motor-controllers/all-brushed-motor-controllers/solutions-cubed-motor-mind-c.htmlIt can do RC, but you will need one for each motor. Also, are you sure 2.25A is enough for your motors?
And it looks pretty good, I don't mind soldering either.
Actually, while I was going to go and order batteries from http://www.all-battery.com/ if anyone can recommend a better place to buy, it would be appreciated, I was going to just purchase a single 12V battery pack to simplify things, but I'm not averse to putting a couple 6V packs in series, etc.
Actually, while I was going to go and order batteries from http://www.all-battery.com/ if anyone can recommend a better place to buy, it would be appreciated, I was going to just purchase a single 12V battery pack to simplify things, but I'm not averse to putting a couple 6V packs in series, etc.
try www.onlybatterypack.com
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for wheels would go with the sumo tires they have great traction
also the BEC connector is a god niversal connector
But it seems mounting hubs are also required, meaning they'll cost me almost $40 in total.Pretty easy/cheap to just make your own.
Keep in mind the surface of the race track is sheet aluminum, and the robot must make it up a 10oFoam wheels can grip a 10 deg surface no problem. If you are really worried about traction, you can add rubber to your wheels:
incline. I was considering going with foam wheels, they seem to be the cheapest, but I have qualms about their ability to grip the track and provide enough traction. As well, the motor shaft diameter is 6mm, so the wheel/hub would have to be that size or smaller (I could always drill a larger hole). Any decent wheel recommendations?, I am looking for something in the 3-5" diameter range.
QuoteBut it seems mounting hubs are also required, meaning they'll cost me almost $40 in total.Pretty easy/cheap to just make your own.QuoteKeep in mind the surface of the race track is sheet aluminum, and the robot must make it up a 10oFoam wheels can grip a 10 deg surface no problem. If you are really worried about traction, you can add rubber to your wheels:
incline. I was considering going with foam wheels, they seem to be the cheapest, but I have qualms about their ability to grip the track and provide enough traction. As well, the motor shaft diameter is 6mm, so the wheel/hub would have to be that size or smaller (I could always drill a larger hole). Any decent wheel recommendations?, I am looking for something in the 3-5" diameter range.
http://www.societyofrobots.com/robot_ERP.shtml#changes
I'm sure Admin will know what it is...he got the exact same charger as meactually, I dont - they look similar though . . .
QuoteI'm sure Admin will know what it is...he got the exact same charger as meactually, I dont - they look similar though . . .
as for that thingy . . . hmmmm its not in the instructions that came with the charger?
what happens if you plug it in and turn it on? it looks like an LED of some sort . . .
my guess is maybe its for discharging a battery - plug it in to a battery, and it slowly drains it . . . but really I don't know . . .
heyIt was blinking red until I hooked that weird piece back in, I guess that's the LED signal for "there is a serious problemo" ;D
i have that charger , the Tenergy one
I have both the 4.8V to 7.2V version and the 7.2V to 12V version. I am satisfied with both they both work fine
When the LED is red its charging when its green its done charging
which wierd piecelol, guess it was the fuse? I'm not sure...look further up this thread, for when I asked about the "weird piece", there are pictures there....ahh nvm, this is what I'm talking about:
the fuse?
but yea blinking red is problemo
Also Admin, I just went back to onlybatterypacks.com to check this out. And here's the funny thing, in your other thread you complained about the charger you bought, and the the link brings you to the page of the EXACT same charger that I bought. However, it seems they shipped me something different, a Tenergy charger, not the one shown in the picture on onlybatterypacks.com. Not the same charger that you recieved. Either there was a mix-up (I hope I got a 12V charger....otherwise ) or your complaint made them change that productsee here for my reply: