Hi,
Let me start off with some questions:
What revision number is your datasheet? (It's written at the bottom of page 1, mine is revision 3 from October 2004).
Did you read it?
When you got the HD motor, didn't it have its PCB and if so, what chip is on it?
What did you do with the PCB?
I have following questions right now:
I need 4 lines for motor. I have connected 3 of them to Out 1, Out 2 and Out 3. Should I connect the 4th one to ground?
Which lines
did you connect?
How did you find out
which to connect?
You are the only one to find out which wire goes to what, use an Ohmmeter and find out which is which.
The fourth wire could be a tacho line, a connection to the center of the star windings or something entirely different.
Where do Sense A and Sense B go?
Datasheet p10, fig. 10 and p18 fig. 24 shows that (fig. 24 is a complete schematic and Table 9, same page, has the component values).
Do I need the Charge pump to drive a motor?
Yes, but it won't do much good when you don't use it to give the needed voltage boost to the gates of the high side N-channel MOSFETs.
What is the TACHO for and do I need it?
For speed control - and since I don't know your purpose, I cannot tell if it's OK letting it run wild (but I'd guess not, as tight RPM control is one of the parameters Brush Less DC (BLDC) motors are chosen for in a HD).
What are RC pins for? Do I need them for this circuit?
A BLDC controller is 3 of the same but separate circuits. Each can only pull the motor a certain distance.
In comedy, timing is everything it's said, but in BLDCs it really IS as close to everything as you can possibly get (it doesn't get funny until the timing slacks, you may say
).
As you can read in the datasheet (p4), one of them is for the current controllers off time and the other is for the F/V-converter.
Do I need current detection pin?
Yes.
And you need the Hall pins as well.
In your "diagram", you have 8 pins "not used", one with a question mark and you're shunting the boot strap voltage to V+.
That tells me that you didn't really care to read the datasheet, or you would know that you need all these pins.
Your M.O. right now should be, apart from studying the datasheet a bit closer, to locate the original PCB, as it may tell you the purpose of the fourth wire as well as contain the Hall elements which are crucial to running the motor.
Frankly, you'd be better off using the chip that the original PCB has got.
If you cannot locate the PCB, you're wasting your time, you can save the motor for the bearings, but you're probably not gonna see it running in any controlled way and
you'd probably be much better off with a regular DC motor (or finding another BLDC motor WITH it's driver PCB).
Ask yourself this: Why do I want to use this particular motor type and what do I want to drive with it?