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81
Mechanics and Construction / Re: Looking to learn where to start
« Last post by Schlayer on January 24, 2015, 04:29:20 PM »
    If I were you, I'd forgo a micro controller altogether. You need to control two drive motors via remote control, and that is easily accomplished with a simple 2 channel radio receiver and transmitter. I agree with bdeuell on several of his points:
From my understanding of your mobility requirements it doesn't seem like treads are necessary, you could probably get away with some wheels, they would need to be large enough and have some traction. Of course tracked robots can be very cool and if that is what you want to build it isn't the wrong choice...wheels are just simpler. The most basic robot construction is probably two driven wheels and a caster.
As for motors you will probably want something geared.
etc...
    Geared motors are pretty useful, as with a remote controlled vehicle it's incredibly simple to operate them. I can't see a reason to use steppers, as that just adds a PWM component and complicates things. You could easily use a two joystick controller with two sub-$10 bidirectional speed controllers and two cheap gear motors, a ~$50 transmitter/receiver kit, and then be pretty much done with all of your electronics. Usually digital transmitters can be bought at a moderate price and give you a massive amount of control over an R/C system. You can get a $20-$30 analog controller instead, though I personally haven't found a 2 joystick transmitter for surface vehicles under $60.

Digital: http://www.rakuten.com/prod/neewer-fs-gt3b-2-4g-transmitter-w-receiver-combo-fly-sky-3ch-rc-car/276213605.html?listingId=380080984&sclid=pla_google_NeewerDirect&adid=29963&gclid=CjwKEAiAoo2mBRD20fvvlojj5jsSJABMSc7jeqFyoUR-shy0hms1x-pHGpNdxQlb2agrIuRhHbngyxoCp9Lw_wcB (This I've used personally and it can be used to control differential drive vehicles like you would a traditional car, with a steering wheel and throttle)

    Alternatively, you could use one motor to drive an axel on which you have both rear wheels, and mount your castor to a servo for steering, allowing easier use of the pistol grip transmitters like this: http://www.amazon.com/FS-GT2-Transmitter-Channels-Receiver-channels/dp/B007FSJM6S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422138401&sr=8-1&keywords=rc+car+transmitter
(FlySky just happens to sell transmitter + receiver kits that are easy to find and fairly inexpensive)
82
Electronics / Re: Help with sensors for a Chess Board/Pieces
« Last post by Tommy on January 23, 2015, 06:43:42 PM »
Quote
Could anyone offer my any advice on how they would approach this problem?
paddymcd93, I'd point a webcam at the board, then use software to detect both the peace being moved,
and it's color.   

Tommy
83
Misc / Re: "real" microcontrollers
« Last post by mklrobo on January 23, 2015, 02:50:23 PM »
 :) Hello!
Parallax has made the propeller chip, and has succeeded in many  applications. The propeller has
8 MCUs on one chip, each can do 20 MIPS. Multitasking is performed via each MCU, or COG. Alot of
people use the propeller from industry to amateur. I have played with the propeller, and it is
program friendly, with lots of support on their forum.
Microcontrollers of this scale are usually dedicated; but the versitilty of the Parallax Propeller
sets it apart, and breaks the chains of usual scalability. A visit to the site would be worth your while! ;D
84
Electronics / Re: Help with sensors for a Chess Board/Pieces
« Last post by mklrobo on January 23, 2015, 02:40:47 PM »
 :) Hello!
I would offer an opinion.....
In reference to the magnets, to keep it simple.
Each chesspiece has a maximum of 6 magnets, all round, and
installed in the bottom of the piece. Each magnet has a specific place,
and the model for all pieces are the same.
The arrangement of the magnets trip the reed switches, when moved to
each spot. (each peice has a max of 6 magnets, and EVERY spot has 6 reed
switches or hall effect transistors-- for sensing)
The position of the magnets identify the part by a bianary code, 6 spots = 62 pieces.
(may have to add more)
All pieces have to stay forward, so they can be identified correctly. (turning them can
cause them to be wrongly identified.)
This is ALOT of magnets, and ALOT of sensors.
It would be easier to have each piece transmit data.(infrared, RF, etc) to identify
each piece. (infrared through the board, via glass hole.)
I hope this helped!  Good Luck!   ;D
85
Mechanics and Construction / Re: Looking to learn where to start
« Last post by mklrobo on January 23, 2015, 01:42:16 PM »
 :) Hello!
I would suggest investing time into programming the servos, along with identifying some
schematics. Parallax has some good starting robots, with manuals for basic programming.
The Avon microcontroller seems to be user friendly, with built in commands that take the headache
out of getting servos to work, with the interface worked out. Good luck!
86
Mechanics and Construction / Re: Motor Identification
« Last post by mklrobo on January 23, 2015, 01:37:22 PM »
 :) Hello!
Parallax has done some work with this type of robot. It might be a good thing
to look them up. Good luck!   :)
87
Mechanics and Construction / Re: Printrbot simple metal with E3D v6 HotEnd
« Last post by mklrobo on January 23, 2015, 01:35:32 PM »
I have no idea of what you are doing, but sounds cool!  :)
Can you provide more details?
88
Mechanics and Construction / Re: sheet metal to make a plank?
« Last post by mklrobo on January 23, 2015, 01:33:46 PM »
 :) Glad to offer my opinion!
I would suggest to use a model from the automotive industry;
They can use a thinner metal, just bent. Bending the metal
can add strength to the  plank, without adding more metal, which
causes more weight. I try to approach solving these types of problems
by observing real world applications, then adapting those to my
needs. (After all, those inventors already did the work!  ;)  )
Good luck!
89
Misc / Re: HGR Industrial Surplus - Used Industrial Robots/Parts
« Last post by mklrobo on January 23, 2015, 01:25:24 PM »
 :) Cool Stuff!  8)
I did not know there was a company like this!
90
Electronics / Re: Electric bicycle
« Last post by newbie_teach on January 23, 2015, 11:01:34 AM »
Tommy,
Thank you for sharing  :D

Schlayer,
That seems incredibly reasonable,I am not a engineering student/engineer,there's a lot of time for that(long story in short-I am basically a kid). I wanna learn about engineering(i find making/building things fascinating),but the motor would probably be the 350W one, so that i don't have much of mechanical mess...(i am not exposed to all those tools).But electronics probably the esc,i will make it.
Now,so that i can learn and just not build for the sake of building. What's the math behind selecting the motor of 350W with gear box(i know very basic info on gears).
The motor you showed me(the 350W version) has no much of specs(on ebay atleast), the 250W one has "rating speed=3000rpm and rating torque=0.8 N-m" rating here means base motor, before the gearbox right?
so even after gear reduction new rpm=3000/10(considering gear ratio is 10:1),and torque would be 8 N-m(0.8*10) on the shaft. which is not according to requirement right?
I know my calculations/predictions are wrong in someway,please show me my mistake and the "math" behind this.
Again sorry for being a pain.
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