Buy an Axon, Axon II, or Axon Mote and build a great robot, while helping to support SoR.
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Any reason you went for the 10-pin ISP header rather than the 6-pin version (which I think is more common).I assume the display is common anode?______Rob
That's great. As you do more boards you'll get better on knowing how to run traces and what might not work when looking at the toner deposits. I've used model enamel paint and a small brush to touch up a trace before etching where the toner wasn't heavy enough.Keep us posted.
Hi,A Sharpie or similar is much easier to use than paint... And very easy to clean off.You should try photo transfer. An average laser printer and the right "film" (I use drafting film, but have used baking paper when out of film), an UV source and some pre-sensitized PCB and you can make traces down to 8 or 10 mils, with no need for retouching.
@corrado33, I assume you are using Eagle to deign the circuit board?If so, what is the part you are using for the 4 Digit display? the only parts I could find in eagle are displays with 8 pins.
I might try that. We did photo etching in school when we did microfluidics. It was a PITA to get the time right. Too little and it didn't work, too much and the stuff under the mask started to harden too. (It was a resin that hardened with UV).
On another note, I just bought a drill press. A nice powerful 16 speed floor model off of craigslist. (For really cheap) Then I proceeded to try to carry it downstairs. THAT was an experience. I almost died/crushed my dogs/broke a bunch of stuff. That said, it's safe down there now lol. Those things are REALLY heavy, and I even took part of it apart.
EDIT: OH I didn't buy a huge drill press just to drill circuit boards, do a bunch of other stuff too (and some that requires a good bit of power). I've been working around ways to drill straight for years. lol
That little thing is COOL!! I can't see it being useful for making anything other than very tiny holes though. (And how often do I do that? )
I swear you know a little bit (ok a lot-a bit) of everything don't you?
I'll probably order 3-4 1mm bits, three .8 or .6mm bits, and two 1.#mm bits.
Unfortunately my newly acquired press only goes to 4300 RPM. So... that's interesting. If it doesn't work, I'll just zip tie my dremel to the chuck of the drill press and use it that way. (With the drill press off of course). That'd be an interesting (and dangerous) sight if both were on.
EDIT: HMMMM... there are much cheaper sites to buy drill bits than mcmaster.... At mcmaster a 1.0mm bit would be $4.## bucks. At drillbitcity it's $1.50 a piece... Also, these bits have shank diameters of 1/8 inch, which is good and bad. Good cause I can put it in my press, and bad cause I can't fit it in my dremel.
What's the chance I'll break 10 of them? (They sell them in packs of 10).
Sure I could loosen the chuck with two pairs of pliers but that'd get annoying, and I'd mess up the chuck. I did some research and it's not a normal chuck key, it's some British Japanese Imperial Standard or something crazy like that,
[...] But I switched the position of the GND and +5V so now the ground has a nice wide open pathway to... uh... make a potential difference?