New lower price for Axon II ($78) and Axon Mote ($58).
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Hi,First off, cleaning is the key. you need to get to bare un-oxidized metal to braze.
Second, not knowing your torch, does it (power wise) relate to the job at hand?
Third, do you shield the heat by something able to stand the heat and isolate, to pack as much heat as possible into your work piece?
Does anyone have any links to videos showing this being done?
It appears you are doing it right. You first heat up the material really hot, then apply the rod. What I suspect is that you didnt get the correct rod. The one you are using is obviously not melting, and as the manufacturer said, you need much higher heat. I think what you bought was a welding rod.
[...] but does not 'wet' the steel target material [...] It simply forms into globules as if the target material was not clean, although I am sure it is.
Hi,It sounds weird and the only explanation I can think off is, that perhaps you're not flux'ing correctly or you may be heating it too much before you apply the rod - most flux'es should be heated until transparent like water, then the rod is applied.You might try another way: File the rod into "powder" and mix that with the flux. Clean the surface totally (i.e. fine emory paper for the last run). Apply the flux/metal paste immediately and heat it up with a soft flame, making sure the joint and surroundings heat evenly. Apply a pointed flame when you can see the brazing metal beginning to shine.
Ok I looked up the mcmaster part numbers . . .White Silver Brazing Plaste Flux 1 Pound Jar7693A2High-Fill 35% Silver Brazing Alloy7676A4Hope that helps . . .And my flux paste definitely turned translucent/parent