New lower price for Axon II ($78) and Axon Mote ($58).
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AREF and AVCC should both be connected to VCC
I was also wondering if I had a good layout for the board, I haven't routed it yet, so it's just airwires.
Hi,Quote from: Jdog on March 06, 2009, 07:00:40 PMI was also wondering if I had a good layout for the board, I haven't routed it yet, so it's just airwires.How are anybody to judge your layout if you haven't routed your board?The routing is a quite important quality in a layout (actually, you don't have a layout at all, until it's routed).Please repost when you're done routing it.
Hi,You have a lot of junctions where you shouldn't and in at least one place you are missing a junction.Don't draw wires across components.
Convention is: Positive voltages should be upwards, ground and negative downwards.
You have no capacitance on neither input nor output of the voltage regulator!
Using buses would clear up a lot of the wiring mess.
I did mean to use the pin headers not the screw terminals.
how did you make the circles that say vcc and things like that.
I still don't know what you mean by QuoteConvention is: Positive voltages should be upwards, ground and negative downwards.
I checked the schematic and I just have 1 problem with it. Why do you have 2 capacitors not included in the $50 robot schematic.
Voltage regulators needs capacitance at both input and output (and physically close to the voltage regulator), or they will be prone to oscillations, which usually makes them either commit seppuko, or ghost some of the components it supplies.
Is it possible to drill out the holes for the components using standard settings without pulling off the pads by hand?
What value range of capacitors should I use (I'm guessing somewhere between 150 and 250 uf)?I also made the board design. Any feedback would be appreciated. Once again thank you so much for taking the time to help me. Also I'm wondering if I should make gnd and power polygons in the leftover space.
Stick with the original design 220mF - 12-16v, for the oscilator you can use 22 pF ceremic with A 16.000 OR 20.000 oscilator crystal.
Try this attached DRU:http://www.instructables.com/file/FJ043CWRTMEP27Y3QS/
Quote from: Jdog on March 14, 2009, 05:24:02 PMIs it possible to drill out the holes for the components using standard settings without pulling off the pads by hand? what do you mean by standard settings?
Hi,Sorry for the delay, I made these files on the 10th. but forgot to upload them and then forgot about them due to some party arrangements I had to deal with.http://That.Homepage.dk/DL/50_board_2b3.schhttp://That.Homepage.dk/DL/50_board_2b3.pcbThey should tell you what you like to know.
Hi,(What do you americans have against using the correct "µ" symbol?).
is there a way to add a key shortcut to type the µ symbol? eg "ctrl+y"
Quote from: Soeren on March 14, 2009, 07:26:03 PMhttp://That.Homepage.dk/DL/50_board_2b3.pcbThe second link which is Im assuming for the board should have a .brd extension not .pcb and is therefore not working.It's not on the keyboard , although he should have at least typed uF not mF.Also, just making sure, 220nF is the same as .22 uF right?
Hi,Yes it IS on the keyboard, just hold down the right ALT (AltGr) and press "m" and you get "µ" (now there's no excuse anymore )
Hi,Quote from: MrWizard on March 10, 2009, 11:50:34 AMStick with the original design 220mF - 12-16v, for the oscilator you can use 22 pF ceremic with A 16.000 OR 20.000 oscilator crystal.220 mF (milliFarad) would be around 1000 times too large. (What do you americans have against using the correct "µ" symbol?).No oscillator is used in this application.If an oscillator was used there would be no reason for 22pF caps, as oscillators are complete circuits by themselves.For a crystal, 22pF might be needed, but allways use the lowest capacitance that will start the oscillator reliably, as smaller caps equals lower deviation of the frequency.
You saw it and yet you didn't just try changing the extension? http://That.Homepage.dk/DL/50_board_2b3.brd