Author Topic: home made parallel port programmer wiring (Read 6007 times)

SmAsH · « **on:** April 01, 2009, 04:39:21 AM »

this is how ive got my programmer wired. ive seen a few different schems posted on here and it kinda confused me. does this wiring look right? i just want to make sure because i dont want to fry my only atmega8.
1---sck
2---mosi
11---miso
16---reset
18---gnd
ive attached pics of a little $50 board but without a power supply. it needs external +5V. i know theyre not too good but i only have an okayish camera. please no "go get teh f***kin neh camzz denz take teh photo" comments.

GearMotion · « **Reply #1 on:** April 01, 2009, 08:21:59 AM »

This reminds me some of the first AVR I played with. I built is as an all-in-one unit, though. I used a PC board like the one you used, but forced the D-25 connector onto the edge of the board. I wired from there to the AVR.

It was an easy way to experiment with AVRs for the first time.

GearMotion · « **Reply #2 on:** April 01, 2009, 08:40:32 AM »

Here is the second programmer I made. It is a 10-pin programmer, but that isn't too difficult to translate to 6-pin.

The 3 resistors were 330 ohm.

SmAsH · « **Reply #3 on:** April 01, 2009, 01:29:57 PM »

gearmotion, does yours work?

GearMotion · « **Reply #4 on:** April 01, 2009, 02:16:54 PM »

Quote from: SmAsH on April 01, 2009, 01:29:57 PM

gearmotion, does yours work?

Yes. But I'll be darned if I remember what software I used with it. It looks to have obvious pin differences from your version.

I want to think that I used PonyProg. And that this is compatible with STK200/300 programmers. I don't have my notes, anymore.

You have to use a real parallel port. USB parallel ports do not work.

SmAsH · « **Reply #5 on:** April 01, 2009, 02:21:06 PM »

is a real parellel port one in the back of your pc?

GearMotion · « **Reply #6 on:** April 01, 2009, 02:26:32 PM »

Quote from: SmAsH on April 01, 2009, 02:21:06 PM

is a real parellel port one in the back of your pc?

:-) Yes.

A parallel port on the motherboard of the PC (or on a card if they still make them that way) supports programmatically "wiggling" the parallel ports lines. A programmer/program then can make the parallel port act like the ISP signals that program the AVR.

A USB parallel port is only a printer interface.

I have to step away from my PC soon, but feel free to PM me and I'll try to get you set up.

SmAsH · « **Reply #7 on:** April 01, 2009, 02:38:55 PM »

ok thanks gearmotion!

GearMotion · « **Reply #8 on:** April 01, 2009, 08:14:17 PM »

This is the schematic I used for this programmer. But I can't locate the software I had used. It was programming software that supported the STK200.

GearMotion · « **Reply #9 on:** April 01, 2009, 08:17:01 PM »

Might be best to just duplicate this: http://www.lancos.com/prog.html#avrisp

SmAsH · « **Reply #10 on:** April 01, 2009, 11:18:56 PM »

well thanks, ill give the top one a try and prey i don't fry my port. and for the resistors do they have to be exact? also can it harm my atmega8 if i connect the wires wrong?

GearMotion · « **Reply #11 on:** April 02, 2009, 07:47:11 AM »

Quote from: SmAsH on April 01, 2009, 11:18:56 PM

well thanks, ill give the top one a try and prey i don't fry my port. and for the resistors do they have to be exact? also can it harm my atmega8 if i connect the wires wrong?

The idea behind the series resistors is to protect the AVR and the parallel port if there is contention. A value from 220 ohm minimum to about 1k maximum should do OK.

SmAsH · « **Reply #12 on:** April 02, 2009, 02:02:15 PM »

yep, i had a bag of 330ohm left over from my $50 boards.

GearMotion · « **Reply #13 on:** April 03, 2009, 12:53:22 PM »

Apparently there are several ways to wire the parallel port.

This is one (1):

1 - SCK
2 - MOSI
11 - MISO
16 - Reset
18-25 - Ground

This is another (2):

2 - MOSI
4 - Reset
5 - SCK
11 - MISO
18-25 - Ground

This is a third (3):

6 - SCK
7 - MOSI
9 - Reset
10 - MISO
18-25 - Ground

This is a fourth (4):
7 - Reset
8 - SCK
9 - MOSI
10 - MISO
18-28 - Ground

I think #1 is used with WinAVR programming/development environment.

I used #2. It is called "STK200" as it duplicated a wiring design for the Atmel STK200 development kit. The software I used was a BASIC for the AVR. A company called Kanda will supposedly let you download programming software if you register with them.

The #3 circuit is compatible with the PonyProg AVR programming software. In PonyProg you select a parallel interface: "AVR ISP I/O".

#4 Is used with AVRDude. (Used on Linux)

As I mentioned, use series resistors to protect the AVR and parallel port.

So ultimately you should pick the hardware circuit based on the programming software that you have or can obtain.

SmAsH · « **Reply #14 on:** April 03, 2009, 02:28:36 PM »

well i have now built 1 and 2 and i have winavr so i might take a look at the other one from the company 'kanda'. also, great post gearmotion! this will help tonnes of people

GearMotion · « **Reply #15 on:** April 03, 2009, 02:34:03 PM »

Quote from: SmAsH on April 03, 2009, 02:28:36 PM

well i have now built 1 and 2 and i have winavr so i might take a look at the other one from the company 'kanda'. also, great post gearmotion! this will help tonnes of people

Thanks. Yup my whole goal in life now is to get the little "Helpful?" count up. Even eating and breathing come second...

:-P I'm really just glad to help. It was an unanswered question in my mind: Just what parallel port wiring goes with what program. So I did a little research.

GearMotion · « **Reply #16 on:** April 04, 2009, 02:46:07 PM »

SmAsH:

Take a look here at a quick blog I put together:

http://circuitgizmos.com/wordpress/?p=272

SmAsH · « **Reply #17 on:** April 04, 2009, 03:05:15 PM »

wow thanks man, thats a really easy and clear blog to understand!

GearMotion · « **Reply #18 on:** April 04, 2009, 03:08:05 PM »

Quote from: SmAsH on April 04, 2009, 03:05:15 PM

wow thanks man, thats a really easy and clear blog to understand!

So have you had success with programming?

SmAsH · « **Reply #19 on:** April 04, 2009, 03:15:34 PM »

ahhh im still scared to put my chip into the socket and try

but i will try today as its only $6 next time im getting the 8kb version as its only $3. but yea i hope to give it a try today. just one question. does it matter if i made the casing of the parallel port gnd? is there something else connected to it? im just very busy right now. ive got 5 assignments due next week (two of them monday) and i have yet to start them

GearMotion · « **Reply #20 on:** April 04, 2009, 03:19:43 PM »

Quote from: SmAsH on April 04, 2009, 03:15:34 PM

ahhh im still scared to put my chip into the socket and try but i will try today as its only $6 next time im getting the 8kb version as its only $3. but yea i hope to give it a try today. just one question. does it matter if i made the casing of the parallel port gnd? is there something else connected to it? im just very busy right now. ive got 5 assignments due next week (two of them monday) and i have yet to start them

Take the plunge!

The case/shell does not have to be grounded.

SmAsH · « **Reply #21 on:** April 04, 2009, 03:24:33 PM »

Quote from: GearMotion on April 04, 2009, 03:19:43 PM

The case/shell does not have to be grounded.

i know but after about 10mins of trying to make solder bridges i got bored. will it screw anything up?

GearMotion · « **Reply #22 on:** April 04, 2009, 03:27:08 PM »

Not likely.

SmAsH · « **Reply #23 on:** April 04, 2009, 03:29:45 PM »

ok thanks gearmotion

ill try to fit it in somewhere today.
EDIT: nope didnt work

i guess i might spend the $30 on the parallel one from sparkfun $:-\$

noobinator · « **Reply #24 on:** April 05, 2009, 12:38:48 AM »

$30? i thought people were saying its like 12.95?

SmAsH · « **Reply #25 on:** April 05, 2009, 01:11:05 AM »

nonono, i live in australia and with the current exchange rate it comes to like $30 with shipping. thats 12.95us because most of the users on here are american.

GearMotion · « **Reply #26 on:** April 05, 2009, 09:03:58 AM »

Quote from: SmAsH on April 04, 2009, 03:29:45 PM

ok thanks gearmotion ill try to fit it in somewhere today.
EDIT: nope didnt work i guess i might spend the $30 on the parallel one from sparkfun $:-\$

You are using a parallel port on the motherboard, right? NOT USB?

Another thing to try is to look at the settings in your PC BIOS and set the parallel port to be "standard", not ECP.

Oh, and third - new OSes like Vista might be a problem. I forgot to warn about that.

SmAsH · « **Reply #27 on:** April 05, 2009, 01:46:24 PM »

im running xp, its a port in the back of my pc that this connector fits into snugly and how do i check my bios settings?

GearMotion · « **Reply #28 on:** April 05, 2009, 02:03:26 PM »

Quote from: SmAsH on April 05, 2009, 01:46:24 PM

im running xp, its a port in the back of my pc that this connector fits into snugly and how do i check my bios settings?

When you power up your PC from being off, you have an opportunity to get into your bios setup. They are all different, but often you press the F2 key when you get the first visual text on your screen (before XP loads) to get into setup. Usually there is a selection in setup for on-board peripherals and a parallel port selection that allows for "standard" port. Wish I could be more exact, but it is all different for different PCs.

SmAsH · « **Reply #29 on:** April 05, 2009, 02:08:26 PM »

well thanks for that! ill try it soon

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Author Topic: home made parallel port programmer wiring (Read 6007 times)

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