New lower price for Axon II ($78) and Axon Mote ($58).
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Did you try it?
The mechanical movement of the servo should probably be translated to a rather small movement of the gas "pedal", to get the finest possible control.
Yes but no luck on stopping the ripple or jitterypulses.
QuoteThe mechanical movement of the servo should probably be translated to a rather small movement of the gas "pedal", to get the finest possible control.That's what I was hoping you would say as it appears the this S3003 servo seems to stabilize in a very tight PW.
I am currently tracing down the 2.3 section of the circuit somethings is not flipping and flopping so to speak as it should, when taking a trace of set and reset the reset signal inverts or colapses just with very little freq change. But the set signal is steady as a rock. I'm not sure yet what is going on. More than likely a wire out of place as you have noticed the wonderful spaghetti board
Nice to hear from you again and soon NEWYEAR, I think Johnny Walker and the Crown Royals and MR. Jack D and the Bubbles may stop in for a few.... UPDATE Johnny is coming early like tonight as this PASTA BOWL CIRCUIT IS RIPPIN MY LAST NERVE
Just so you know I think we are reaching a point that loose connections and wires everywhere that is becoming almost impossible to get it stable. If I bump anything it can throw it into a state of search for long periods to find it. I believe I am going to have to attempt and start hard wiring to stabilize the circuits.What is your thoughts regarding this. as I am wasting tons of time chasing 1 loose connection.
OK, perhaps we should save this for when the stability of the rest of the circuit is restored.
What do you mean? Doesn't it travel the full 180°?
The signal (input) to 2.3 should be within the range that C1 (TP11) covers, or one of them has to be modified (don't know if that could be the problem?).
I think it would be a good idea to move the subcircuits to eg. Vero board, but keep each of the boards separate, to make it easier to trace down hick-ups. They could all be strapped to a piece of wooden board or MDF.
How do you feel about making a PCB btw.?
It Depends on the setting of VR1 of the first circuit, by raising and lowering it changing output voltage between 4v - 7v holds the PW to a set width to the servo, actually the best I get is about 130 degrees.
I think I am going to do this so some thing are hard wired I'm starting to feel a little like a DOG CHASING IT'S TAIL :-
I believe that the Generator circuit would be a great first attempt at a PCB. I have been looking for a old MONOCHROME LASER PRINTER. DO you think this type of proses is a good way to start by copy transfer to copper as my resist?
What Chemical do you use to finish with after you Mask the board and expose to the UV?
I am currently remounting the solderless boards to a larger area so keeping them separated and to make sure I can Isolate each Circuit a little, plus when it comes time to actually test with the V8 I think it will be a more stable platform to work with.
We really need to get the jitter out of it, before you mount it on the V8, as otherwise the servo will run itself down faster, as the motor will be constantly running back and forth.
DO you think this type UV bulb would work for PCB exposer?
[...] everytime I build it it up to check TP11 with TP13 to B+ and ground. There is a pulse on the trace before I even check TP11 and I cant find why it is happening I know it's not supposed to be there as we jumped this spot before.
Anyways I still intended to finish the circuit to the final 2.3 v no matter what, it is the principal of the thing But I also am reaching a point on the genset that I need to control the RPM's and if I don't finish the circuit I will have to apply the hated mechanical gov soon "Which I have wanted to avoid from the very beginning!"
My explanation could have been better as well, so here goes:As long as you touch the wire (TP13) to B+, TP11 is gonna be low, either less than a few hundred mV or around 3V if you have the zener diode in circuit (doesn't matter whether this or that at this moment).As soon as you remove the wire, you should see TP11 rise like _/¨ (in a few ms, so don't blink) and stop somewhat below B+When the voltage rise on TP11 reach the same potential as you have set "Signal" to, TP12 should go low.It's the delay from your release TP11 to TP12 goes low that you should be able to vary with the pot.How it works:Lets say you have set "Signal" to 6V.When the rising voltage on C1 (TP11) reach a shade over 6V, IC1B will go low, since it's non-inverting input is now lower than the inverting input.It's this low going pulse that will be used for resetting the flip flop consisting of IC3A and IC3b, when we add the next block.Hope that helps - I assume it's R8 that had you pulling hair - once again, I am sorry for that!
Just wanted you to see exactly where I am working as I try to achieve the rise signal on TP11. MY problem is I am getting continuous a HIGH to LOW pulsing trace @ TP11 before I even check for the _/ rise signal
This is your QUOTE when I was having this issue before.
This is where I am trying to get the circuit to operate correctly. I am breaking it back down as you had me do before and take a step at a time to correct this issue . As I am sure it is my wiring that's give me a fit
I am about 2 weeks out before needing to set the V8 gov circuit to work I think I am getting a little "Rube Goldber syndrome" between the circuit and my Gasifier;D
Well I am starting to make some headway. and I hope to get IC3 on the vero board tomorrow and running smooth. Crossing my fingers
QUESTION! As I was taking a closer look at what I thought was a LM334 I see now that what I am using is a LM234. That being said is it critical to have the lm334 or can the 234 handle the job? If they wont I will have to order as I only have 2 of the LM234 and no LM334's Also I found the exact R1 and R2 needed to hold the Thermal levels you spoke of!
I am going to try for 2 more days to finish the 2.3v and make it work on the Vero Boards. If all else fails I may have to ask for the code to run Ucontroller But truly I would love to bring this circuit all the way to a finished board, as we have a lot of time invested here. And your design deserves it's day running that servo and V8
All that said... You had it running, so I'm sure you can get it going in no time.
You are correct it is running and on Vero boards
I will mount them on Hard surface after we fine tune to hold that 300 RPM range. I believe that was the number we want as far as throttle responce?
Now we did have a problem with the jittery servo but as I explored I found that it is noise from the TEST GEN CIRCUIT if I applied my finger to R1 of the circuit, it stopped the jitters and also cleaned the signal trace that had shown a little glitch as the test signal started to go high on the scope.
But I must ask? When I put my finger in touch with the Test Gen circuit R1 is it acting as a filter cap would work?
I will wait for you to tell me what should be next.
I will mount them on Hard surface after we fine tune to hold that 300 RPM range. I believe that was the number we want as far as throttle responce? I believe it was 1,200RPM = 80Hz (for a 4 stroke 8-banger).
What frequency range does it cover as it stands?
You did use a CMOS version of the 555, right?
The 300 RPM I mentioned in this quote was referring to the upper and lower limit of the servo swing 900 to 1500 RPM;D Hope that cleared up what I was trying to say
As it stands it swings from 17.5mS to 8.5mS I believe 57.1Hz to 117.6Hz. This is before doing any stabilising.After adding the caps it now swings 8mS to 15mS 125Hz to 66.7Hz
QuoteYou did use a CMOS version of the 555, right?Well imagine you asking that question and after looking at the 555 it is a NE555 which I don't think is CMOS "I do have a LM555 that was right in the same container. After I added the Caps to pin 5 to GRD and pins 8to1 it took all jitter out of the circuit Do you think I should switch them the LM for the NE now that the circuit is stable?
I am going to have a close look at the datasheets on these Timers now that you have taught me something "new" again as I didn't know there was a big difference
Well Soeren I am feeling very good about this as the circuit appears to be stable and I have a very close 12.5 mS reading to mid range on VR1 I may have to bump it a couple more nf. But it is very close now
I'll check later to see if you get a chance to read this.
As I sweep VR1 fully on the Test Gen Circuit the Servo is giving me ~80'degree movement back and forth.
Now that the curl is gone on the signal and jitters have stopped the 7805 VR has cooled down and I am not sure it even needs a heat sink
Now I hope I used the word " Über " in it's correct context as being a Great or a Superior moment?
I hope that this is the correct readings that you need?
QuoteAs I sweep VR1 fully on the Test Gen Circuit the Servo is giving me ~80'degree movement back and forth.
QuoteNow that the curl is gone on the signal and jitters have stopped the 7805 VR has cooled down and I am not sure it even needs a heat sink
Below are the revisions made to first part of circuit "Revisions to V8SG_4.0 PDF"
too bad I slept with half a glass of Coke in my hand - it sure spreads little drops like a frag when you drop it.
as far in each direction that will still give a response within ~1V to ~9V
Hope it was on tile and not carpet, makes it a tad bit easier to clean up
You are in the medical Field and I thought that REST was one of the orders from the DR. The way it sound your job keeps you at full speed most of the time I hope you have a vacation soon
Well the readings are in and this is the result. First off the voltage level did drop below 1v down to .06v so I dialed VR1 on schematic 1 to start at ~1v.Also are my Time/div correct?---(900=16.7mS) (1200=12.5mS) (1500=10mS)
The reason I ask is it would seem that the TIME would be linear but it didn't come out that way. But the voltage reading were about a 1/2 volt each as the RPM was changed and almost 1 full volt each as VR1 was fully turned the other way.
Also I wanted to make sure you were aware that I made a big mistake when I put the final resistor R8 in Schematic 1, I put a 47k ohm instead of the 470k what a blunder on my part
[email protected][email protected][email protected][...]
As Far as changes to schematic 2 they are below in a jpg.
What you're saying is, that R8 is 470k in your working circuit
Well here is what happend after the changes I made the changes that you requested, then powered the circuit and had no responce when sweeping VR1 on ether the Gen test circuit or Schematic 1. So the only way I could fix this issue was to remove R5 100k that was in series with Vr1 on schematic 1. I hope that this action was okay? In the original schematic 1 the value of VR1 and R5 together were a total of ~100k with VR1 max. If this action was okay I will pick up a couple 50k VR's and put another 50k in series to correct only having a 100k VR1 in the circuit now.
After removing R5 I was able to adjust Vr1 on schematic 1 to allow the Gen Test Vr1 sweep the servo ~0-135 degrees but that was the limit. I am attaching a video so you can see the other issue I'm having. When the Servo is moving from 0-100degrees it moves at full speed, but the last 35degrees it slows down and takes about 2 seconds to settle at 135. I wasn't sure of the cause so I just stopped.
It looks strange. You seem to turn it in intervals, what happens if you go from min to max in a single short turn.
How does the output look on the 'scope while that happens?