New lower price for Axon II ($78) and Axon Mote ($58).
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Now I have to get some parts it may take a couple days supplier that I was dealing with stopped carrying lots of stuff and radio shack has very little. I guess I will have to deal with the digi-key company. but I have to wait for shipping
Also I have noticed my Vertical trace line is showing very weak and I almost cant see the full wave form I guess thats what I paid for? Even when I focus and increase the intensity
All I can do is work with what I have, I am thankful I have a oscope at all
The Bottom picture is what's happening no matter how I try I cannot get that rise and fall trace on a square wave above a few Hz.
By chance is there a internal adjust for that ?
Ill keep working and if I have too at some point I'll Buy a better scope. But I really think it's just that I am new to it all, we will see!
Picture is of 2v//div and 1mS/div =1hz It must be the operator!!!!! :'(
It's a shame it's raining and I cant get to the engine............... well I will try and play with the freq circuit and see what happens
Here is a picture of it, you might be able to see if I screwed something up....................
Winter is moving in and weather is changing a lot. It only going to get to 25.5 Celsius I'll be frozen if it falls much more.............. I bet your winters are pretty cold in DK? Once in a great while it will make it to 0 Celsius down here but not to often.
Here is something I have to ask a question I bought a mixed bag of ceramic disc caps but not sure how they are rated some have 3 numbers and some only 2 . If I understand right the first 2 number are significant and the 3rd is a multiplier.........Right? Anyways if you could tell Me how these are rated it would be a big help. uF-nF-pF
Buy the way the scope was set at 5Vdc/div and .2mS/div. Also I could only get a 5.1 volt Zener and I know you were trying to get the wave to look as close to the Hall Effect signal. sorry but that was all that I could get. But it looked good to me , but I still am having a bit of a time grasping conversion from mS to hz. I know there are 1000 millisec in a second and 1Hz is a second. so why am I confused...........Idont know Duh I don't know what the vari 100k was set at and not sure of cap value. I hate when I don't know if the parts are right
Anyways I thought I had something wrong in the circuit and I checked and couldnt find it so I stopped and wanted to ask what you think it's doing.
First off I checked left of R1 and only B+ was connected-------Reading was only 2-3 mv.
B+ = 12.40VdcLeft of R1 or signal input = 0.70vdc
The Transistor I am using is a 2n3904---- http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/fairchild/2N3904.pdf
Also I am sending a picture of the part of the circuit I know is wired correct it has been checked alot.......
Soren I hope this helps you to see what I am seeing and getting here. I am trying to make sure everything is correct so you are not wasting your time or effort. I have tried several times to get good pictures of the scope signal but I think the RPM's change a little during the picture and the camera can't get the full signal. the wave on the screen is hard to freeze in place .
B+= 12.04Input = With 11.02v Without 0v
TP1 = With .02 Without 11.08 the ".02 is not a misprint it was .02 your diagram said .2 to .3"
TP2 = With 10.06v Without 11.3v
Also the 220k R1 gets very hot when the wire input wire was hooked up with B+.
I think my meter is loading the circuit?
Also I disconnected this part of the circuit from the 4093 so this part is isolated. The only connections are B+ and ground and the circuit it reassembled to diagram exactly
I really hope it helps
Is this part of the circuit acting as a switch for a on off signal and then using decoupling capacitor to reduce the noise to the 4093?
Sorry it is being a pain :'(
Have a good weekend, I don't know if you have Halloween in the DK But tonight is a Holiday for us. So Happy Halloween!
I checked all resistors ohms and replaced Q1 and C1. You were right about the R1 it was a 1/4 watt and very small it had a orange 3rd band very hard to see sometimes. So I got RED RED YELLOW it cooled things down a bit
Now after checking and rewiring everything here is the reading With and Without the in wire to B+.[...]Just so you know I measured the emitter base voltage it was .58 and the base to collector was .54 and Collector to emitter.02volts.\ with the in wire hooked to B+So I am at a loss for words, I have no idea why these readings are coming out so different than what they should be. I even brought a 12 volt car battery into my desk to make sure that is was not my power supply acting up.I sure hope you can see what is going wrong I don't have a clue.
I hope a picture is worth a thousand words here are pictures of the" test signal circuit output" to the "input of the left part gov circuit".Can you actualy understand what I said in the last sentence.............. I cant and I wrote it....lol
If you are unable to see settings they were in all pictures 5v/div and 50us/div.If you could explain why the TP2 signal jumped up on the vertical divsions and changing where ground is?
Let me ask if this is correct! 3.2/divisions*5mS/div= 0.016 then recip 1/0.016=62.5Hz.Hope that is right? If not clear me up will you
Here are the pictures and all of them were taken with scope set to 5v/div and 5mS/div.Hope this works better than yesterday.
This peak needs to be removed by a diode (any will do) in parallel with R4 (100k), with the cathode (the bar) pointing up to B+ and the anode towards TP2.That will quench the part of the peak going higher than 0.65V above B+
If you allways keep the ground line (on the 'scope) at the middle line, the one with subdivisions, it's easy to compare pictures.
Well, off to sleep now - have to go to a celebration on the Australian Embassy tomorrow, followed by dinner at a Michelin star restaurant (Hard work, but someone has to do it)
It is Done and it clipped almost all of the peak.
Soren 0v ground is at middle grid line. "From now on"
I'm Having sympathy pains for you as I type.
There is not very many people trying to escape DK
Hey sounds like your going to have a very nice time, enjoy sir enjoy!!! Jealous :'(
I was just experimenting after adding the diode you told me to add and added another diode in series with the cap and 100k r4 cath is facing C1 and it cleaned the top portion of the signal. I don't know if that is good or bad ? If bad I'll just take it out.