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Actually if you watch close the last VR1 turn in the video and look at the servo and VR1 turn closely I am at full turn, way before the servo's movement ends if 2 seconds is way before . Actually I can count it's time here as being around 2 seconds until it stops.
Actually the servo pulse high time swings from ~1.7mS - 2.2mS. You can see the Servo High Pulse slow as it is reaching it's minimum high time.
It almost gives me the impression that a CAP is discharging down slowly through a resistor making the action described in the last 2 seconds I hope you can understand what I am describing?Would reducing the value of C6or R9 change servo's pulse to bottom out faster? "Just trying to learn"
Well I made the change by adding a 1MEG ohm resistor in Parallel with C6, which fixed the delay But the servo was trapped again and would not hardly move by adjusting the VR1.
I tried decreasing R9 but no improvement so I put the 470k back in the circuit. So I was looking at the completed schematic and in your last change you had increased C7 to 68n so I tried increasing it to 100n and the circuit started to act correctly, I hope this action won't damage the circuit.
I now have VR1 on schematic1 set to a little under 50k about half it's max and when the Gen Test is set to 1200RPM the VR1 on that Circuit is also centered . So Everything is ~mid- range and I have no delay from 900 - 1500 Below is the JPG of the Changes.
So did I do any harm by adding the 100n cap Hope not I shut it off just encase
Now I'm a bit curious as to how you knew that the 1M fixed it then?
Increasing the cap makes it take longer to reach a certain voltage, so it matches better the lower voltage at TP4 caused by the resistive divider of 470k and 1M.Changing one comparator input means you have to change the other proportionally, to get the same effect.
Or, in other words, it is working as intended now?
Actually after placing the 1meg in, I powered the circuit up. As soon as the power came on the servo moved from 0 to 135 degrees with no hesitation, so I assumed the delay was fixed Then trying to swing the RPM's w/VR1 the servo would barely move.
Correct! Now were having fun
I will mount the Vero Boards to a hard surface over the next day or so. So I have a good stable platform while working around the Engine. I wish it would warm up so I can go out and play coldest winter in 35 years here in Florida :'(
Any other info I should know before attempting this testing of the " SOEREN 1200 dISCRETE COMPONET GOVERNOR"?"The SOEREN 1200" kinda has a nice ring to it
OH yes almost forgot to ask, what value in-line fuse should I use when hooking it to the engine voltage supply?
Just a quick question, is using all 1/4 or 1/8 watt resistors okay to use on the PCB? I dont beleive it was ever mentioned that high watt resistors were needed
Below is a picture of boards mounted and ready for testing.
[...] it wont be long now and VROOM, VROOM , VROOM
You have way too much Vero board!
I hope it'll be more like VROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
Do you Think I should cut it down 1 or 2 mm to make it look just right
I think I will put the PICF675P chip Gov onthe last 50mm of the Vero and run the head to head against each other
Hey I just bought a pickit2 and am learning how program with it. I am working a circuit that uses a pic12f683 and I already have the firmware so it will be good to learn the hardware side with it.Any ways I was going to ask you if after I get a little more know how on that Pickit2 and get the NEIL V8-9-10 on the PCB if I could squeeez that little bit of code out of you that was suggested for that PICF675P chip Gov. Now that I took the hard way and actually built the discrete set up, I feel better about trying the easier road with the PIC on later projects.
I just saw that you were asking about the '683.Now do you have '683 chips, '675s or don't you have any yet?
No not yet I am ordering tomorrow and so I will get them ~Wensday. The other circuit I am starting calls for the 683
Any ways here is a link to it.http://picprojects.org.uk/projects/bigmosfetrgb/ This what I'm up to, making toys for Christmas HO HO HO
I printed out a couple copies of the V8 Gov and I had to get the 1:1 factor set, after that it came out great. I put a 4093 on it and the pins were right on the money.
I didn't have any Photo sensitive board yet, so I am going to try the Iron on method w/ glossy paper and see what results I can get.
I ordered a few of the 16f628A'S today also as I think you are right that maybe I should learn on a chip that has a little more to give then the 12f's
Just have to wait for the stuff to get here!
You may want to take a look at those. Very easy to program yet powerful enough for projects.
I am needing your opinion. When drilling PCB's w/ say w/a dremel tool are HSS or Carbide bits a better choice to use.I have a feeling that breaking a few is possible @ 1.2mm
I'm still trying to figure the best solution for the program, but have been busy on family matters - Still on it every second I get to be online.
And yes the first PCB was a lot cleaner, I will drill both and use as needed. I have learned a lot and yes there is a great need for some extra tools to clean the jobs up also.
If by chance there is a different PIC, that would make things easier to write for, let me know and I'll order anyone that's needed if it makes it any easier on your end and I can still program it with the Pickit2.
I know this project is running a long time and I am sure you wouldn't' mind it getting wrapped up