Society of Robots - Robot Forum
Electronics => Electronics => Topic started by: z.s.tar.gz on April 28, 2010, 08:12:21 PM
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I've been told to solder the bottom, then use a knife to move up the plastic part, then solder the top, then move the plastic back down. The problem is that the small abount of solder on the pins makes it nearly impossible to move the plastic back down without damaging anything.
Are there any other ways?
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Hmm... Well, always try not to apply any forces to the soldered joint. So, after you soldered the bottom, turn the board upside down, close to the edge of the table, so it stays on the pins you just soldered. Then carefully insert the blade at the base of the pins and push down towards the table so you slide that plastic down the pins. After you solder the top, press on the plastic while the pins rest on the table, so you don't force the soldered joints.
I would try to slide the plastic on the pins before you plug them into the board, to loosen up the plastic and ease the process. Also you can try to make a jig from static foam (the thing the ICs are plugged when you buy them) and have the plastic already moved in the middle of the pins before you solder the bottom.
I hope it helps...
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I don't quite understand what you're saying in that first paragraph.
Could you please rephrase it?
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The problem is that the small abount of solder on the pins makes it nearly impossible to move the plastic back down without damaging anything.
Place it on the table, so that the pins touch the table. Then just move the plastic - just make sure you distribute force evenly or the plastic won't be straight.
Otherwise you'd be putting force onto the PCB to move the plastic, breaking the solder joint.
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What about placing the header long wire first into the pcb and solder it. then remove the plastic spacer. Should be evenly spaced on both sides
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that's a pretty good idea.
I'll try the table technique first though.
would the sockets be able to stay on them after that though?
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Er... any reason why you should do this in the first place? Maybe for homemade double-sided PCBs that don't plate through, but for production PCBs you won't need to do that. A proper header pin solder joint on the bottom will actually flow through the hole and a little will get towards the top, which should be plenty
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for home made boards i always just use the plastic bit to hold the pins while i solder one side then remove it completely while i solder the other.
dunk.
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and you just don't put it back?
that's another good idea
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I think I'm going to just do a through hole board for now as I really really really don't have a lot of time to work on this thing.
Also the best way is to just give up on the little plastic things right after you've got it soldered in the bottom.
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Hi,
Are there any other ways?
Keep the pads on one side on the connector and use vias (or wire) in other places - that is, if you cannot make the PCB single sided in its entirety.
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Yeah I tried that originally but that adds an extra 24+ vias to the board.
I think I've got it on the ropes though. I'm going to try to solder both sides with as little solder as possible so that I can keep the plastic things.