Society of Robots - Robot Forum
Electronics => Electronics => Topic started by: megaman935 on June 22, 2007, 08:24:21 AM
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http://www.acroname.com/robotics/parts/R146-GP2D120.html
Is this a good IR rangefinder?
And if so where do I (and where) connect it to the microcontroller?
Right now I'm in the planning stage of my first robot and I'm hoping to make a sumo bot (not quite stampy but pretty close) and I'm wanting to find an IR Rangefinder that can do what his can. I don't think I'll be competing, but I'd like to make one if a competition comes my way. Thank you,
Mega
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A quick question- if I have it go after things like stampy will it go after things that don't move? cause the only thing I'd want it to go after is me, my brother, or my cat. :P
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Yes (I think it's the exact same one Stampy uses)
Plug the output into an analog to digital converter pin of your microcontroller, if your microcontroller has an analog to digital module, connect the other two to the ground and Vdd
Tracking motion is all in the programming, you will need to compare two results and if there is a significant difference, it indicates movement, this will require the robot to stay still for two complete range scans, compare, then move
There might be another way (doppler effect with IR? ultrasound?)
Maybe you can program it to predict where the object is relative the the robot after each move, then you can have the robot move constantly while looking for moving objects.
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Ok, so I'm gonna use this microcontroller:
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=666#
do I need a programmer/program to program it?
-sry, noob question... :P
Oh, and would anyone reccomend a camera instead?
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An Arduino uses a bootloader, the FTDI chip on the board allows USB signals to be translated into UART signals, which is loaded into the microcontroller and that is how it's programmed
No, you don't need a programmer
A camera won't make motion sensing any simpler
Here's an idea... Get http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=555-28027 , you still need to stop your robot once in a while to actually sense motion
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The range on that sensor is only 1 foot. Look at the others to choose the range you want.
The one I used is this:
http://www.acroname.com/robotics/parts/R48-IR12.html
if I have it go after things like stampy will it go after things that don't move?
It goes for the first thing it see's in a preprogrammed range area, doesnt matter if it moves or not. It uses the edge to determine a chase heading. To get it to identify objects requires more advanced 2D mapping (do a scan, store data in an array, then run an algorithm to identify target).
Oh, and would anyone reccomend a camera instead?
On my newest robot (http://www.societyofrobots.com/robotforum/index.php?topic=1218.0) Im going to combine a CMUcam/AVRcam camera (target ID and X, Y location) with sharp IR (distance away) to identify a target. For a low budget hobbyist its probably the best way to do it.
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Yeah I was looking at your robot. looks like a good way to start for anyone who wants to get into robotics. the arm is a good first step to a more advanced robot arm and the body does have room for little "tweaks".
I don't have cad so I'm going to have to explain this through words only. My robot is going to have a "hand" like the one on your robot, only it can open/close it because of the two servos. the hand is split in two so a servo can turn one then the other moves the other. I'm going to have a small thin board that is an "L" shape so that I can connect another servo to turn the whole "hand" 90 degrees. sound logical?
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I don't have cad
yes you do :P
http://sketchup.google.com/
the hand is split in two so a servo can turn one then the other moves the other. I'm going to have a small thin board that is an "L" shape so that I can connect another servo to turn the whole "hand" 90 degrees. sound logical?
There are a billion ways to do it . . . just make sure you make your gripper ultra light. You will have problems otherwise. Ill add a gripper to mine after I get all the fundamentals worked out. Ill probably have a wrist joint and a clamping joint, both with miniature servos.
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miniature servos.
where do you get those? Otherwise I'm using hs-311s and that wouldn't look very good. I'll try to scan my drawings and show em to ya.
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http://www.societyofrobots.com/robot_parts_list_motors_servos.shtml
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(http://i17.tinypic.com/67gsarp.jpg)
I've named it Sam.
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Of course, this is only a quick drawing that I did in my sleep. ::)
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The sharp's are great stuff, be aware of its short comings though. Depending on which range you get(Short range of long range) they are NOT accurate for the first few cm's. They will give you readings that are very far off, also it uses a non-linear return. So lets say it gives you a return of 55(out of 255), and that means 11 cm.. 65 might only mean 13cm, while 95 cm could mean 24 cm. They go in order, but they are not spaced out evenly. Just google the model and you will find a ton of methods for graphing it out.
good luck :)
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Robotboy86, the term you trying to say is 'non-linear sensor' ;D
megaman935, since my newest robot needs accurate distance data and Ill be using that particular sensor, I should have code to linearize it written up in a week or two. Let me know when you need it and Ill post it.
But you probably wont need linear data if all you are doing is edge detection . . .
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Robotboy86, the term you trying to say is 'non-linear sensor' ;D
megaman935, since my newest robot needs accurate distance data and Ill be using that particular sensor, I should have code to linearize it written up in a week or two. Let me know when you need it and Ill post it.
But you probably wont need linear data if all you are doing is edge detection . . .
Well, I started this post before I really thought about it. How do you make codes? I'm going to use an arduino microcontroller. I'm planning on making it an r/c robot- my friend is going to make a 50$ robot and I'm going to hopefully thrash him in a little duel. Would it be easier to have it do it on itself? :P
My robot's arm will require 3 servos (2 that need to go at the same time) I'm probably going to use dc motors for the wheels (though not completely certain)
should I get a 6 channel transmitter package?
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Oh, and I can't find the size of the Arduino USB Board... If someone could supply me with that information, I'd be much obliged. :P
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Nvm- I emailed the staff at sparkfun.
The measurements are as follows:
Length: 2.7"
Width: 2.1"
Height: 0.5"
This is the Arduino Usb Board.
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How quickly does this Sharp IR rangers sample data?
I mean the sampling rate of this sharp rangefinders.
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Hi,
[...] since my newest robot needs accurate distance data and Ill be using that particular sensor, I should have code to linearize it written up in a week or two. Let me know when you need it and Ill post it.
I hope that you're aware, that it will only be useable with targets of approx. the same size and reflectivity, as this matters a great deal.
You might wanna scope it out with different targets before you spend a week (or whatever) of proggin'.
For less than mm accuracy, the code for linearizing can be done in a single line or two, but if speed matters, I'd go for a translation table.
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If I use this:
http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=555-28027
what can keep it from hitting things in its path and yet still hit the target?
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Hi,
A PIR sensor will only "see" heated (or cooled) bodies (whether human, animal or anything else) that is moving across more than one of its "zones", so it won't keep your creation from hitting obstacles, as they would most likely be still and at, or close to, the ambient temperature.
As it stands, it won't be able to "see" you walking in front of you, unless you're seriously waisted, zig-zagging your route.
That said, if you want to detect a static body you could allways move the sensor - as long as the body is crossing the zones seen from the PIR's perspective and it's temperature differs from the backgrounds (otherwise it would be invisible to PIR detection).