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I soldered on the rest of the SMD components. I noticed the PCB peeled back off the chip in one corner though so I plan to use kapton tape to tape off everything but that corner, use a couple alligator clips to pinch the PCB onto the chip tightly so it can't move, and then use hot air from a heat gun to reflow that corner so it reattaches to the PCB.



Once that is done, I will attach jumper leads to the 6 inputs/outputs so I can run a full proper test of the whole circuit using a lab power supply and a multimeter.
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Mechanics and Construction / Re: My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project
« Last post by artbyrobot1 on July 22, 2026, 12:20:06 PM »
I wanted to be able to get in there and test this board for shorts and check all traces for continuity with my multimeter but felt its leads were too big for this tiny of a board setup. So I came up with this idea to use alligator jumper cables to attach sewing needles to the multimeter probes thereby making the sewing needles the new probes. This way I could get into the tiniest areas and run the tests I wanted. It worked pretty well! I have now tested everywhere quite thoroughly and everything appears to be in working order. No short circuits and continuity in all the places there should be continuity.



So now I can proceed to running my bodge wire and soldering on the various resistors and capacitors and then running a electrical function test. I will probably use jumpers to the VIN and Vout and GND for this test. Then if it passes the test I can attach the big bus lines which is a bit more involved.
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Mechanics and Construction / Re: My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project
« Last post by artbyrobot1 on June 16, 2026, 04:04:28 AM »


Ok so I had multiple failed attempts to solder the chip on. Despite pretinning the PCB, on both attempts when the solder went molten the chip did not center itself and lock into place as would be expected but instead slid out of position significantly both attempts. After the first attempt I assumed it was the outlet bus/landing pad on the left side of the board that was to blame - it being a larger solder mass than the other solder masses on the other edges of the board - causing the chip to slide its way harder and pulling it off center. However, even after cutting off that part of the board entirely and trying again I still had the chip slide out of place during reflow attempt. It's unclear to me the cause of the issue at this point. I put on AMTECH tacky flux that expired in 2022 onto the pcb and then placed the chip as close as I could to centered and then put it onto a hot plate for cooking food or boiling a coffee pot those AC electric hot cooking plates. I had the heat set to max on there. The first time I had the board on the whole heatup time period and watched it gradually smoke off flux vapors and eventually the solder go molten and then I switched off the hotplate but it didn't matter since the chip slid 5mm off center. The second time I added it after plate was much hotter to avoid so much flux burnoff during the heating up process. I also added some flux while it was molten after which time it slid off center. Perhaps that was my mistake? Not sure. In any case, after the failed second attempt I cleaned everything up really well and chose to hand solder it. This seemed to go better. For this process, since both chip and PCB were fully tinned and no shorts to my knowledge, I proceeded to line up the pins the best I could under max magnification and then while pinching it in place I held my solder iron tip onto a trace near a pin for 5-6 seconds to get the solder very hot and hopefully locally heat the whole trace up to and under the IC's pad. I did this for trace after trace. Then to clean up since it was I guess cold joints at this point I applied flux and drag soldered all around every edge. This cleaned up the appearance and got all flux properly seated on traces since it was drifting a bit in the previous step and looking quite sloppy and bad. I did not want to have flux involved during the initial alignment phase and tacking down phases because once that is on I cannot see well the alignment from the sides since the flux blocks my view. Even without the flux its hard to see the traces and their alignment with the pins of the chip. The chip does not have pins is the problem. It has pads on its underside and little pads on its sidewalls. I have to use the sidewall pads as to verify the pads on my pcb line up with those and any flux in the way prevents me from seeing this clearly even with max magnification on my visor.

So anyways yeah, this whole thing was a bit of a disaster but MIGHT have ended ok in the end. For now hand soldering instead of reflow looks like my best bet at least until I can figure out what i'm doing wrong...

Note: I'm not sure if the flux expiration matters I haven't looked into what that means for performance.

Note: I still have no way to verify all joints are good until I test the whole finished PCB I guess. And my confidence they are all good is a bit low. Sucks that I have to invest even more time to finish the PCB while doubtful it will even have reliable connections at present ugh!

Note: I had to remove the trace from the previous post that ran under the chip because during my reflow and cleanup from failed attempts while cleaning some of the solder mask came off and I just wanted to remove that potential short or source of issues as a variable entirely for now. I can always run a bodge wire to reconnect those two points of the board later on.
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Mechanics and Construction / Re: My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project
« Last post by artbyrobot1 on June 07, 2026, 03:41:46 PM »
Ok I managed to apply the UV solder mask today and it seems like it worked quite smoothly. I used the tip of a small sewing needle to spread it over the trace and then held the UV light on it for 10 seconds to play it safe. I used transparent UV solder mask so you can still see the trace but its a bit more murky/cloudy when you see it. I used the tip of an exacto knife to put little scratches on the UV solder mask to test its thickness by feel and test its durability a bit to scratching. And ensure it was fully cured. It was very hard and durable and seems to have gone on fairly thin. The question is, is it too thick/proud of the surface for the soldering on of the chip over it? This is the million dollar question. Because if the mask lifts the chip up off the PCB even a tiny bit then the soldering may not reach between pads on the IC and pads on the PCB, failing to bridge the distance. That is my main concern. If I have any issues with that, I will have to reroute this trace to go around everything rather than on the shortest path like it is now. The shortest path leads it under the IC and led me to have to mask it. Extra steps like this are a bit annoying. I kind of wish I just routed it around everything out of the way more. Then I would not need to UV solder mask at all. Perhaps in a future board iteration I will do this improvement but we'll see. For now I made several boards and want to stick to them since it would be more work to remake them all.

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Mechanics and Construction / Re: My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project
« Last post by artbyrobot1 on June 03, 2026, 12:12:11 AM »
Ok so the Relife RL-UVH902 UV fast cure solder mask order has arrived and so has my order for a Relife UV curing light to cure the solder mask quickly and effectively. So now I just need to solder mask off that little trace that goes under the half bridge IC chip.



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Hey all-

I am an old geek/nerd and need some "learnin'" about how to start a simple project to make wifi/bluetooth things I can run remotely (IoT).
Looking for a jump in spot.  I have a raspberry pi to start with.  I guess I'm looking for a place to start. 

Starting with test modules with a proto board.  Micro-controllers that support Bluetooth & Wifi like the ESP32, but in a "pluggable" way that handles things like step motors, limit switches, servos, etc.

Of course it has to have an IDE/SDK/SDP for developing software...  I see that depends on the MC and the build platform.

Has anyone here stepped down that path and have any recommendations or sites/groups in mind?

Thanks in advance,
Kenny H
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Mechanics and Construction / Re: My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project
« Last post by artbyrobot1 on April 28, 2026, 03:52:22 PM »
So the plan I have for the heat sinking main conductors that attach to the bottom pads of the IC chip I decided to draw up to explain it. It will be in layers. First you have the chip on the bottom facing bottom side up so the pads are exposed upwards. Then on the first attachment layer I cut out matching shaped copper plates from copper sheeting and solder that down with low temp solder paste and a soldering iron. In theory, this first layer attachment will basically just be extending the pads up past the viewing window of the DIY PCB with cutout viewing window we've made so far so that the DIY PCB we made so far and this first layer of copper plates together act as layer 1. Ideally the copper plates would be slightly proud of the printed PCB in height I think. This first layer copper plates that we are soldering onto the pads of the IC carries the current and the heat sinking to layer 2 without the need for vias. In a multi-layer PCB made industrially, vias would take the heat sinking and current to layer 2 of the board and we are just using solid copper plates instead which should be even better than vias because its solid copper instead of just via holes so more surface area than vias would offer. Now on layer 2 we can create a much larger sheet that extends out past the PCB way off the chip and that portion that extends way off the chip acts as a tab we can solder the V- wire to. It also acts as a tab we can solder our 6 strands of solder wick wire that act as heatsink fins to. Layer 2 also has a plate that brings the V+ to layer 3. For layer 3 we just attach a large sheet of copper which also extends way out past the chip and acts as a tab we can solder our V+ wire to and our heatsink solder wick wires to.

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Mechanics and Construction / Re: My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project
« Last post by artbyrobot1 on April 04, 2026, 03:03:24 AM »
Ok I used the tip of my exacto knife to carefully scoop on low temp solder paste and then carefully drag soldered it over the key areas I wanted pre-tinned. There do not appear to be any short circuits and the amount of solder on each pad and trace seems a decent amount to me. I forgot to wipe it with alcohol wipe but have done so since taking this snapshot.



The next step is I have to carefully uv cure solder mask that little trace runs under the IC chip. It definitely will short a pad to something I think if I don't. I have to apply it very thinly so it doesn't prevent IC chip from seating flat and soldering into place well.
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Robot Videos / Re: Giant Robot! (Giant Spider-bot)
« Last post by Admin on April 03, 2026, 12:15:30 AM »
It's been 18 years, so I looked up what happened to the guy a few weeks ago. I always wondered what happened to it.

He just posted a video explaining what happened to the giant robot spider toy project.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYHIJtQxbzw
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Mechanics and Construction / Re: My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robot Project
« Last post by artbyrobot1 on March 20, 2026, 04:25:06 AM »
So as I fast approach motor controller wiring phase, I figured I would revisit placement again. Upon further reflection I decided hovering midair motor controllers attached to nothing might not work as they'd perhaps be a bit in the way of getting at the motors and just be a bit overwhelming. I'm not positive on this and could revisit the concept but for now I'm thinking of just mounting it side saddle onto the motor again. I decided to place them side by side with inlets on the output shaft end and outlets on the BLDC motor wiring's end. I drew this sketch of the layout and wire flow as a visualization aid.

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