50 dollar robot help - what can i replace ATmega8 AVR with?

[Cradboard]

basically im trying to build the $50 dollar robot and im in the UK

according to the parts list i need ATmega8 AVR

however it is on backorder only here
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Integrated-Circuits/Atmel-Microcontrollers/ATmega-8-bit-AVR-Microcontrollers/77086/kw/ATMEGA

can i replace it with any of the others on the list?

many thanks

[Admin]

ATmega168 and ATmega328 (the latter being the best)

Just make sure you read the upgrade microcontroller tutorial.

[Cradboard]

DAMN lol

im enough of a newb as it is and thought id struggle coding this without more complications!!

thank you tho!

[Admin]

A hundred noobs have done it before you, and asked every possible question a 100 times in the forum, so don't sweat it too much.

One person even told me he is now a professional robotics engineer getting paid to make robots, and it all started as a noob building the $50 Robot.

[Cradboard]

SWEEEET thanks

[Cradboard]

sorry there are 4 ATMEGA168 am i right in assuming its

ATMEGA168-20PU 8-BIT MICRO 16K DIL-28 RC that one

NOT

ATMEGA168V-10PU 8BIT MICRO 16K DIL28 (RC

[Admin]

The ATmega168 part link is here, silly
http://www.societyofrobots.com/step_by_step_atmega168_swapout.shtml

You want a DIP, meaning its for through-hole soldering.

[cyberfish]

DIL IS DIP.

Both will probably work, but the 168V is the lower voltage version, which may also be slower.

The first one is more common.

[Finnik]

Indeed DIL is DIP and the 168V is the lower voltage version, requiring a minimum of 1.8V instead of 2.7V.
Furthermore, the first (20PU) runs at a maximum of 20 MHz, the second (10PU) will run at a maximum of 10 MHz.
At this moment the difference does not matter for you, for the internal oscillators are the same, but I'd take the 20PU version because of the possibility to run it at higher speeds with an external crystal. You never know when it might come in handy.