Hi,
Manufacturers (and hobbyists who like to keep their copper solderable
) use a lacquer that's not only solderable, but even works as a flux when heated by the iron. After a repair (or whatever), reapply on exposed copper.
I personally prefer
SK10 for light duty work and have used it since the seventies. I have tried a few other types (mostly German products), but nothing really beats SK10
If you're absolutely sure, that you won't ever need to solder the board, a few layers of Plasticote or similar is better suited to resist a moist and dirty atmosphere (like under the hood of a car), but then repair gets really troublesome, as it forms a tough "hide" that's hard to remove (and don't try to solder through it, unless you have a superb fume extractor).